Taking my first subway ride out to Brighton Beach to visit my adorable (built like Soviet tanks) grandmas (from herein referred to as babushki because I know you guys wanted a Russian lesson with your review), I convinced them to head out for some much needed Georgian food therapy at TONÉ-CAFÉ Georgian Bread.
So the reason there's a hyphen between the name is because there's two parts to the establishment. The "garden" or restaurant is on the left where you can enjoy a nice sit down meal in a pseudo village style ambience (think iron tools/wheel spoke decorating the walls which are covered in fake but charming stone-effect plastic wallpaper). The right is your in-and-out bakery with a tone on premises. The tone is basically the Georgian cousin of the Indian tandoor. The amazing bread that's ordered to go or made for whatever order/ complimentary serving you receive is made in there. Be sure to enjoy some because their bread is OUT OF THIS WORLD amazing. It's also cool that there is a flow between the two halves; my table in particular had a view of the tone in the bakery so we could watch the breads being made.
To start with, we had to go for some hot soups to fend off the blustery winter chill (nothing, of course, compared to babushka's times in Moscow and Siberia). All the soups came in large wooden bowls so it really added to that authentic ethnic charm. Side note: order the Tarragon Lemonade (tarkhun). Green soda...I know it sounds like it's weird, but trust me when I say you'll thank me. Babushka 1 had the kharcho, which is a beef stew with rice, walnut paste, and plenty of spices to savor. The beef was incredibly tender and the broth was very flavorful. It made for a really hearty bowl. Babushka 2 had the chakapuli (a personal favorite) which functions as both a soup and an entree. Chakapuli is a stew of veal that's been cooked and simmered in white wine, plenty of tarragon, sour plum, scallions, dill, and cilantro. Did your mouth just accidentally drop salivation? Mine did. The chakapuli here is AMAZING: lots of tender pieces of calf mea all swimming in a pool of herbed-wine heaven. Best way to eat it is not with a spoon, but to dip the bread so all those juices get soaked up for you to enjoy. A MUST ORDER if you go! Being the adventure seeker I am, I'd been waiting for the day that I could try khash. Khashi, the Georgian sister soup to the Armenian symbol of national pride, was on the menu so I HAD to order it. Ladies and gents, this is for you thrill-seeking yelpers. Khashi is a milk based broth that is made with cow hooves and tripe. I'll let that sink in for a minute. It's served with a mound of garlic that you dump in as you keep pouring salt to flavor the incredibly fatty, oily texture of the soup. It's not the most appetizing looking thing as gelatinous meat floats around (the trotter had some hair still on it) but the soup actually wasn't that bad. Would I order it again? Probably not, but I recommend it if you are looking to have an interesting foodie experience!
Do you think we stopped there? If you do, you don't know me at all. Next up, we shared three main courses: kababi, khachapuri adjaruli, and khinkali. For the Georgian food virgins of the world, the last two are an ABSOLUTE MUST! They're basically the staple foods of the cuisine. The kababi is a ground beef and pork mix served in a lavash styled flat bread and seasoned with the amazing Georgian spice, Kotsahuri. With a side of tkemali (sour plum sauce), this was one delicious kebab. The meat was delicate but packed with juicy flavor and seasoning. The portion is huge and between the three Russians, we couldn't finish it. The kachapuri adjaruli, which takes a while to make since it's made to order, is basically heaven on a plate: bread boat with a center cracked open to reveal globs of mozzarella and sulguni cheese with eggs ladled on top. The trick is to whisk the center with a knife and to let the concoction cool a bit (as the bread is piping hot). Then, break off some bread and dip. Lord, thank you for this bounty that my mouth is slobbering on. It's not possible to put into words just how amazing this national treasure is. Just order it and bow down. Then, there were the khinkali. Now, I've had my fair share of dumpling delights prior to this place ranging across a variety of ethnicities, Georgian included. This place...BY FAR the BEST soup dumplings I've EVER had! Six GIANT khinkali come steaming your way as you pick it up by the twisted knob at the top. Bite in and slurp to realize who needs tickets to the actual Olympics when you can have one right in your very own mouth?!? The broth is so wonderful while the meat is juicy and has just the right amount of peppery heat to it. GET THEM AND FEEL JOY!
All this for a mere $65 (tax and tip included) and it got babushki approval?!? Slap a -vili or -dze and call me a Georgian. Listen to Ray Charles when he says he has "Georgia on his Mind" because you should too! read more