Soto is the new kid on the block in terms of premium contemporary sushi experiences in Houston, hoping to compete with the Uchis, Katas, and MFs in town. The place is helmed by chef Andy Chen, who opened the Austin original in the early 2000s, and he is joined by former Uchi head chef Yoshi Katsuyama to offer a variety of small plates and bites showcasing fish flown in daily from Japan. My wife and I were gifted a $200 gift card (we ended up spending $300+...), so we had high hopes when pulling up to this sleek building on Westheimer. The space inside is dark with tall ceilings, a bustling sushi bar at the back, and a liquor bar off to the side. The first thing we noticed immediately was that the place was LOUD. I don't know if it's the acoustics of the room or if there were too many tables packed closely together, but it was rather cacophonous, which isn't ideal for a fancy date.
We started off with drinks. My wife's Earth + Honey (mezcal, tequila, shiso honey, yuzu, honeysuckle, egg white, bitters) was an extraordinary balance of floral, sweet, sharp, and complex. Bravo to whoever invented that. I opted for a double of Mars Iwai whiskey with ice. I was expecting a single cube (probably should have specified), but it came instead with a giant ice sphere, which would've been fine if the drink hadn't been allowed to sit and dilute before making it to the table. My second glass of Shinobu pure malt fared much better and would recommend.
We ordered a la carte, so I don't remember everything. But here's what I recall for review purposes:
Salmon Over Fire - heavy on spectacle and mediocre in flavor. Basically salmon sashimi dressed with microgreens and draped over a fire. I didn't get much of the advertised raspberry chili flavor. Not worth it for $14.
Hon Maguro flight - a $40 four-piece journey through a bluefin tuna, from least to most fatty. Consistent with the other nigiri rolls, the slices of fish are on the smaller side, even for a high-end spot. The last roll -- the kama toro topped with gold leaf -- was actually quite chewy due to sinewy tendrils of fat creeping throughout. One of the middle two pieces were probably the best, given the right mix of muscle and fat that melts in your mouth.
Softshell Crab Tempura - one of the best bites of the evening. Pungent, crunchy, full of seafood-y essence.
Nigiri - most of these were actually quite good and unique. They make innovative use of toppings (yuzu zest, shallots, black pepper, etc.) and some of the fish is cured and/or torched. Our favorite by far was the eel, which was incredibly complex and delicious. Possibly the best I've ever had. The savory king trumpet nigiri was also surprisingly bomb, with a rich and meaty chew. The Scallop is also worth trying.
White Tiger Roll - this pairing of tuna, cucumber, avocado, and lemon aioli was not especially memorable and likewise on the smaller side.
I think if I went again, I would focus entirely on the nigiri, since that's where they seem to shine. 3/5 is admittedly a bit harsh given a lot of the dishes were legitimately great, but this high of a price point demands near perfection without any culinary or service missteps. It's still early in Soto HTX's life, so perhaps my next visit (preferably during happy hour!) will impress me more. read more