Verdict: this place tops Seattle for the intentionality behind food choices and the overall experience. Instead of other kaiseki / Kappo places, come here instead! Every course is memorable and different - you will never get bored here, if you actually are a fan of sushi experiences.
NOTE: This missus gives this place a mega-rare 5/5 - and if anyone reading my reviews knows us personally - she's impossibly difficult to impress!
Reservations: Friday, 10/25, at 8pm for 2 at the Kappo Counter, booked Monday! Grand opening was on September 6, 2024.
Context: "Kappo" is when they prepare everything in the open - in front of the guests. This is a "sibling" restaurant to Shiro's. The full experience took 2.25 hours - we started at 8pm and left shortly after 10:15pm.
Arrival experience (7:45pm): We were warmly greeted at the door and they checked our coats! (they give it back to you at the end)
Drinks: The missus ordered tea ($6.50); I ordered the Chef's premium sake pairing ($68), which included one sake cup each of Pure Dusk, Chartier/Tanaka, and Born 38 special. The staff explained which ones paired well with which courses.
Heating: They don't use butane for direct heating - instead, they only use an imported Bincho (Oak?) charcoal to heat & sear foods, which is aromatic and not "acrid" like you would find with most domestic charcoal.
Menu: seasonal - Masaki-san mentioned that the next rotation (to Winter) will likely happen in the 2nd week of November. From opening until now, same(ish) menu.
Dining: This thoughtful menu had 8 distinct courses, with three distinct "Dashi" focal points. In order:
1. Sakizuke (Chawanmushi w/ Nodoguro / caviar); This was the first introduction to one way of using "dashi" as part of the Chawanmushi.
2. Hassun (appetizer) course - with Lotus roots, nishiki egg cake, sockeye salmon, (deep-fried) dungeness crab with milk/cream inside, small Kamasu (barracuda) oshizuki, bluefin tuna sashimi, and a duck breast skewer;
3. sashimi course (katsuo - seared skipjack tuna, two parts - backloin and belly, with ponzu sauce, and tasty Walla Walla sweet onions);
4. Dashi soup (Japanese channel rockfish - kinki, wild chanterelle mushrooms, chrysanthemum leaves), prepped with dried konbu and dried bonito flake;
5. fish course (grilled miso butterfish - Japanese pomfret, or managatsuo, with deep fried leek, oyster mushroom, and parmesan cheese on the side)
6. meat course (A5 Miyazaki Wagyu marinated w/ sweet soy, wrapped w/ Fig Leaves, fresh wasabi&salt on the side); small side of figs (in-season).
7. Sushi (nigiri) courses, which had eight pieces - they SEEM simple, but there's a lot going on, more on that later.
8. Dessert course - Mojio ice cream (non-fat milk), tonka bean paste (tastes like cinnamon and almond), baked apple, and shaved frozen cosmic apple on top.
Also, Aosa miso soup (b/w 7&8). Rich ocean flavour, w/ Aosa seaweed. Prepared w/ fish bone broth.
Nigiri courses: The sushi rice uses a blend of Yamagata rice grains; the temp? Perfect! They provided a finger wipe and ginger/kalabi mix for palate-cleansing. If you're getting full, chef can customize the rice amount per piece!
1. Otoro (fatty bluefin tuna): 26 days dry-aged, with Japanese mustard on top. This is the only piece the missus didn't "love", but she's not a fan of "boring" fish (tuna generally), so this is forgivable (I personally liked it!).
2. Ishigakidai (Knifejaw Snapper): two slices of dry-aged fish, w/ a crunchy outside. Seaweed salt, with Sudachi (looks like a lime, but more citrus-y) juice on top. This was a special piece - missus's and my favourite of the sushi.
3. Hotate (Scallop): cured with konbu to really enhance the ocean flavour, with konbu/yuzu on top.
4. Saba (Mackerel): served oshizuki ("pressed", seared) with a seaweed wrap - "five flavours" in one bite (sweet, salty, sour, bitter, savoury) - some more faint than others, but they're all there.
5. Sawara (Japanese Spanish mackerel): smoked with cherry leaves, dry-aged 11 days.
6. Uni (Sea Urchin) &Ikura (White Salmon Roe): Both from Hokkaido, VERY fresh.
7. (Mini) Futomaki: bluefin/fatty tuna, tamago, daikon pickled radish, shiso leaf, topped w/ soy-cured egg yolk. Crunch bite, complex flavours. YUM.
8. Anago (Ocean saltwater eel): topped w/ Japanese sansho pepper blossom. Ocean-flavour was evident!
Service: there's 5 chefs and 3 wait staff - all are friendly and courteous, and you never have to wait for water (choice of sparkling or still). They clear plates FAST.
There's 14 seats at the Kappo Counter - 10 along front, and 4 on side. There were three groups of four, and us two.
Total cost: ~$600 (incl. tax+20% service charge - we ordered drinks), but the "set-price" meal is (a reasonable) $185/person. We left very full - but not "bloated & stuffed".
Ambiance: besides conversing with the staff, the background music is a light instrumental rock soundtrack. read more