Growing up as a Chinatown hood rat, I remember sitting on the stony ledge beside the river outside of Royal Kitchen munching on baked Manapua fresh out of the oven. We didn't have much money then, and as a kid more often than not all my family could afford as an after school snack was a Manapua or two.
These days, I'm a both a Chinatown old-timer and an unusual sight there along the riverbank mall among homeless friends; sitting on that same stony ledge all grown up in tailored suitjacket and trousers, sharing the same baked Manapua out of a small brown paper bag; remembering what the world was like in a different, simpler time before life became a terribly complicated thing -- and for just a few minutes letting myself be that kid growing up in Chinatown again, enjoying the simple love of warm, freshly baked bread opening up to steaming hot roasted shredded Char Siu pork.
There is something unquantifiable about freshly baked Manapua from Royal Kitchen -- there's a kind of temporal fleetingness that, almost like the steam that wisps away when you tear open a freshly baked Manapua, wisps away just the same way in increasing orders of magnitude the more time that passes between oven and mouth. These Manapua are best enjoyed pulled from a fresh tray right out of the oven, dropped into a paper bag and eaten on-the-spot -- as anyone who has ever eaten bread freshly pulled from the oven can tell you, there is no other experience like it.
Here's what you need to know about Royal Kitchen:
FOOD:
Royal Kitchen specializes in Baked Manapua. These are yeast bread buns that are slightly sweet, thin-shelled and airy soft, surrounding a filling that is traditionally Char Siu, which is a red-colored traditional Chinese Roasted Pork Loin, chopped up into small bits. The Char Siu Bao (Manapua) is their most popular by far, and they bake fresh every few hours. Think of them as round, semi-spherical Piroshky (anthropological records show a migration from China through Russia as an ancestral basis for European Piroshky).
Fillings include (made less frequently through the day) in my descending order of preference and recommendation:
Great: Char Siu, Kalua Pork, Portuguese Sausage, Lup Cheong
Pretty Good: Curry Chicken, Chicken, Vegetarian, Hot Dog, Black Sugar
Meh: Okinawan Sweet Potato, Coconut, Ma Tai Su
Royal Kitchen also offers various Chinese roast meats and a few "plate" options.
PARKING:
There are two lots you can park in, both paid. The first one is on North Kukui and is on the ground floor of a building. This lot is closer to Royal Kitchen and has a 30 minute grace period. The second lot is the Cultural Plaza parking structure with 8 floors off of Maunakea. If you are staying longer than 30 minutes, this is the better lot to use. Be warned though, at lunch time this lot (structure) fills up quick and it takes a while to get in and out. There is also street parking nearby.
ORDERING/ SEATING:
There's usually a mob of people waiting inside, overflowing outside. Take a number, wait for them to call it. While you're waiting, take a look inside the Manapua case on the right side of the counter, and get an idea of what they have. The Manapua will be marked with a red mark of some sort on top of it (except the standard Char Siu, which will be unmarked - see photo), indicating what the fillings are. Before you start ordering, tell them how many you want total so they know whether to get you a box, a take-out styrofoam case, or a paper bag. When you're done, go to the register at the far left and pay there. No seating inside. There are some tables and benches outside.
SERVICE:
Minimal. They take your order, you pay. Move along. They understand English just fine even though some of them speak with a heavy accent.
ATMOSPHERE:
Tiny, oldschool Chinatown. Manapua case to the far right. A selection of local style Chinese foods in steam trays line the center of the counter, with a case of roast pork, Char Siu loins and roast duck and chicken hang in the case to the far left next to the register.
COST/ VALUE:
Extremely good. Each Manapua as of 17 May 2012 costs $1.20 and it only takes about 3-4 to fill up an average sized person.
VERDICT:
5/5 - When it comes to Manapua, there really is none better, period. I have not had better anywhere, be it NYC, San Francisco, Honolulu, Taipei, Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong or anywhere in between. I've had better Char Siu Bao, but none with quite the same soulful satisfaction that comes with a touch to the heart of a young, innocent Chinatown kid buried somewhere underneath the hardened exterior of the man I have become in my years. It's Manapua like this that makes you realize that your suit from London, your tie from Paris, your watch from Geneva and your car from Stuttgart mean nothing, and that the best things in life sometimes come $1.20 at a time from a tiny shop in the run down neighborhood you grew up in. read more