I should hate this place. It's a chain restaurant, the plating lacks finesse, and the clientele remind me of the mentally challenged country bumpkin from "Dark Night of the Scarecrow." I'm an *open-minded* snob, however, so I'm willing to overlook many flaws if a place serves up the goods. My two visits to the Rib City Grill in Rifle, Colorado were so positive that I'm even willing for overlook the request displayed prominently in the men's room: "Those with short bats please stand closer to home plate." Serve me a platter of tender, smokey baby backs and you can "pitch" me as many baseball/urination analogies as you wish.
Onion rings are a good litmus test for any restaurant serving no-nonsense American food. If the rings come out flaccid, greasy, or burnt, then the kitchen is unlikely to execute anything well. Rib City's rings were perfect on both visits: cut thick enough to retain their astringency, seasoned liberally, and fried crisp. A side of tangy, herbaceous homemade ranch dressing gilded the lily but was worth the extra calories.
Barbecue novices and foodie phonies tend to bandy the cliche "fall off the bone" when referring to ribs. A properly cooked rib, however, should pull cleanly off the bone with the teeth yet maintain some resilience and chew. I was skeptical if a barbecue chain could execute a decent rack of ribs, but my cynicism faded after just one bite. The meat was tender, firm, and tasted strongly of redwood smoke. I consulted Rib City's website after the fact and confirmed that redwood was indeed the smoking agent, once again proving that I possess a palate rivaling that of Dr. Hannibal Lector. My only complaint is that the thick, gloopy, molasses-based sauce threatened to overwhelm the meat. Dear pitmaster, sometimes less is more.
Sides include everything expected of a barbecue joint. The baked beans were too sweet and soupy for my taste, but the coleslaw was delicious: crisp, fresh, and coated with the proper ratio of mayonnaise to vinegar. The green beans were heavy handed with the bacon (an observation, not a complaint) and reminded me of the ones offered at Cracker Barrel (again, an observation, not a complaint).
The menu offers other barbecue items -- including beef brisket, turkey, and chicken -- but the photos I've seen online give me pause. The brisket in particular looks anemic and dry to this Texas barbecue snoot. Even the best barbecue joints struggle with turkey breast, an inherently lean cut I've always considered ill-suited to barbecue, so I doubt the bird boobs at Rib City fare much better. Perhaps the photos lie, but my senses seldom fail me.
Is Rib City the best barbecue outside of Texas? No, of course not. Is it a solid choice if you find yourself stranded inexplicably in the obscure town of Rifle, Colorado? Absolutely! Stick with the baby backs, the onion rings, and the coleslaw and I guarantee you'll enjoy yourself. Yelp is an international site, so perhaps you're from a different culture and missed the euphemisms contained in the baseball/urination quote. Allow me to tailor that to the UK: "Gents with willows a trifle short please queue up to the wicket." read more