Full review in blog - to date the best dining experience of my life.
#1) "Green Asparagus de Pertuis with thin round slices of squill fish, square of burrata cheese and cucumber seasoned with lemon mousseline sauce / Black olive infusion with old balsamic vinegar, melted sorrel and dominos of Gruyere cheese from Garde / Cardamom velvety soup with asparagus granite" was served as a troika, all unique, all excellent. This presentation was invariably the most complex of the evening and as we were instructed to "taste each separately and then explore the combinations" that is exactly what we did, each bite a new experience - at times hot and other times chilled, sometimes intense and sometimes a fleeting tone on the palate. As the ingredient list for this and all subsequent dishes was quite thorough I will simply note that while each plate was impressive on its own, the manner in which the mildly acidic olive dish acted to refresh the palate each time I came back to it was astonishing. Serving as the starting point it was this dish that served notice of what Gagnaire would serve us that night - shocking subtlety and superior ingredients in a delicate balance.
#2) "Grilled thinly sliced sole with broad beans and leek stems, celery and green pepper. Miso liebig and a veil of squid flavored with ink" was another stunner, but this time all on one plate. With snappy vegetables juxtaposed against melting leeks and savory condensed miso the most impressive aspects of this dish were the fish and the cephalopod - the first perhaps half an inch thick topped with crispy skin and the second as thin as a handkerchief, briny, and delicate as pasta. During 95% of other meals this would have been the best course of the night - at Pierre Gagnaire that evening it was perhaps the third.
#3) Titled "Fresh Morel mushrooms flavored with licorice laid on a bed of vegetables and aromatic herbs. Iced turnip and craterellus mushrooms" there were no tricks in this dish - just flawlessly prepared vegetables, a complex stock, and the very essence of the spring embedded in the earthy morel/mushroom amalgam...an essence that dissipated almost immediately on swallowing as the perfume of licorice, not detectable on the tongue, perfumed the palate.
#4) Thin slices of black grouper seared in brown nut butter, oysters, and capucine leaves with small Palamos King Prawns flavored with amontillado" and on the other "Salt cod 'brandade' in a bisque with grated green apple en amertume." With the dish heavy in protein and having already seen Chef's careful hand with acid, sweet, and savory this course would focus more on the use of bitter - a technique largely ignored in American cooking. Starting first by layering textures - meaty grouper, creamy oysters, and snappy shrimp it was the bitter drew the lines, working in a manner I'd never expected to add focus - the extra dry amontillado making the shrimp seem sweeter, the peppery nasturtium showing off the smoky tones of the grouper, and the nearly crab-apple tart crisp punctuating the briny cod potage.
#5) "Dog cockles, clams, and razor clams with chanterelles, spinach and parmesan cheese gnocchi in foie gras soup flavored with maniguette" would be a flash back to the morels - light manipulation of unique ingredients in unique combinations. With the briny mussels at the forefront and the piquant undertone of foie gras laying the backdrop it was the gnocchi that lent levity - vegetal pillows proving ample foil to the otherwise savory tones.
#6) "Thinly sliced duckling des Dombes roasted as a whole, medlar, spring onions, carrots seasoned with cumin; unctuous juice flavored with vintage port" I can only summarize the experience with the comment my dining partner made to Chef Gagnaire at the end of the meal: "Monsieur, I'd rather eat your duck than have sex with the prettiest girl in the world." Rosy and pink, impossibly lean, charcuterie thin, and advantaged in all ways by the sweet port and medlar - it was the best duck I've ever had - so good that the vegetables became extraneous - so good that we joked with the server that there was not enough...and the server and chef were so good that a second round was served on the house.
#7) "Sorbet of pear, Roquefort cheese, eau-de-vie, segment of Williams Pear with ewe's yogurt / Shavings of Ossau-Iraty cheese, rougette salad, cordifole and green lentils du Puy / Soft apricot stuffed with goat's cheese de Ginestarie" I will not purport to be a cheese expert - especially considering the man I was dining with - but I will simply say all were good, particularly the sorbet selection.
#8) A succession of two courses, the first four plates and the second two the flavors and textures were too myriad to count, but amongst the five larger servings the first three to arrive were Fraises des Bois, yogurt, curry / Garden Strawberries, Red Pepper and Saffron / Apple with Tonka Bean and Pollen Cracker.
.....it just kept going. read more