Désolé pour mes amis .fr, Mais je ne pense pas que j'ai la salle, ni
la fluidité de traduire mon avis. Anglais, il devra être
cette fois.
*****
Oddly enough, the only Michelin 3 star restaurant I've been to that fully lives up my perception of the red guide's highest honor.
Sure, there is always debate, and the variance at both the 1 and 3 star level certainly fuels that fire. (My current belief is that the most interesting cuisine happens at the high 1 to 2 star level). However, if we take a romanticized view of the bibendum, and think of the rating as an assessment of how far out of the way a person should be willing to go to visit a restaurant, then L'Astrance certainly fits the the "exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey" assessment.
And while I'd like to focus on the cuisine, as it is the reason for coming here, I can't quite ignore the level of refinement in the front of the house. For us Americans who consider TFL and Per se as the reference points for efficient, formal, yet sincere and unobtrusive service, you might change that reference point after dining at L'Astrance. M. Rohat and his team seem to disappear into the background while always anticipating your needs even before you realize it. At one point, they cleared one plate while setting a charger for the next course and I didn't even notice. Almost like a bit of slight of hand, my place was set without the formal ceremony that I typically experience. Add to that the fun game of "guess the wine" and there's a nice balance of playfulness and formality.
The cuisine however, is where all of this refinement begins...refine, refine, refine, is what I kept thinking while eating the food. It's obvious that Chef Barbot has a distinctive voice and he uses his minuscule kitchen to be heard without having to be loud. His signature dish of Foie gras mariné au verjus, galette de champignon de Paris, pâte de citron confit was a dish that changes your perception of the main ingredients. Most know foie as a rich, luxurious centerpiece of an ingredient...like truffles or caviar, it's a symbol of luxury about as subtle as a scuderia badge. However, here Chef turns it into a team player, so that the humble button mushroom can have equal footing. Along with them, texture, richness and acid are all balanced out by the individual components. It's a dish that tells a story...one that you can talk about and break down for days, yet it's best to simply eat it up and enjoy it in the moment. Many wonderful dishes preceded and followed, but this is just one example.
The ingredients were all exceptional, but I suppose that should be a given. However, I couldn't help but be taken aback by the cheese course. Fleur de Courgette safranee, fruits rouge, gorgonzola cremeux. The rich cheese (perfectly afinee), served as a base, its richness and flavor balanced by the acid in the raspberry and the whole covered with the most ephemeral squash blossom. The blossom appeared to been "cooked" until it was transparent and infused with saffron, however it still retained its natural structure...similar to the compressed melons you see from time to time, but a much more delicate execution. But that raspberry...I don't know if it was simply the most delicious raspberry that I've ever had, or if the components of the dish made me think it was the best raspberry I'd ever had...either way, the final effect was other-worldly. Mind you, I'd sampled flat after flat of raspberries in California in the weeks prior, so I'd refreshed my familiarity with the year's raspberries...but this one instantly made me think that the ones I had been getting simply weren't as good. This was confirmed at Astrance with the final course of fruit....the raspberries on that plate were more typical. Still tasty, but hardly the platonic idea put forth in the cheese plate. So...did they really save the best raspberry in the bunch just for the cheese course, or was it the composition highlighting the fruit? A little of both? I'll never know.
L'Astrance is cuisine that approaches on the literary, and while that might appear to be effusive, there is no question that Chef Barbot has a clear, confident and subtle voice in his cooking. And really, there are still far too few places and chefs with that kind of strength.
Plus, Chef Barbot rocks New Balances instead of clogs in the kitchen. Total Badass. read more