NOTE: This review is only for the Proper Fish bar and restaurant, adjacent to the original Proper Fish location in Bainbridge.
How do you make a good establishment better in one of Western Washington's key tourist towns? Provide a 'Child-Free' option!
Look, I'm OK with kids. I know they're the future and all that, but after spending too many hours in the 'Screaming Baby Section' of long overwater flights and putting up with other people's undisciplined little hellions, I really treasure quiet places where my wife and I can enjoy adult conversation, adult beverages, good food, and NO little brats underfoot.
Proper Fish, which is easily one of Bainbridge's most popular restaurants, heard the call, and a year ago opened an adults-only bar and dining space next door to their insanely popular (and in the summer and weekends) insanely crowded main location. Hallelujah!
THE ROSES: The space! Bright, airy, squeaky clean, tastefully decorated. Pleasant, efficient, and professional staff. Reasonable selection of beers, wine, and cocktails. The food comes from the same kitchen. You still have to order at the counter in the main dining room, take a number, then come next door to the bar/restaurant and find a seat. The staff will bring your order to you.
The food is more hit than miss. The signature fish and chips is arguably the best English-style battered cod this side of Brighton. You get a single impossibly long strip of battered cod served over what appear to be hand-cut fries and a small side of mushy peas (with just a kiss of mint!). They also offer items like fish sandwiches and fish tacos. The fish is a delight - not greasy, and the batter is perfectly light and seasoned.
THE THORNS: The biggest letdown is the chowder. I'll be honest - they continue (see my review from 2019) to serve it at an unappetizingly lukewarm temperature. It should be piping hot. It is also a bit on the thin side, and seriously bland. It desperately needs seasoning. If they could just get their act together with this dish, this restaurant would be an easy '5-star' for me.
Their Cesar Salad is a bit under thought as well. It consists of large (bigger than a mouthful) romaine spears, each with grated cheese, croutons, and such inside. Are you supposed to eat this with a fork, or pick it up like endive boats? If it's the latter, it's really too sloppy as it's coated all over with (a rather tasty) Cesar dressing. Fine if you're the 'lick your fingers' type, but if you're of a more genteel persuasion, it's either an awkward or messy bite. PF needs to decide what this really is, and proceed accordingly.
PF is also a rather spendy bite. Two servings of Fish and Chips, two beers, and a shared salad came out to a little under $100 when you factor in the gratuity. Still, with our areas outlandish minimum wage and onerous business taxes, it's understandable. It's ironic that Fish and Chips, originally a cheap meal for the masses, would command 'Carriage Trade' prices!
One last peeve: Your order at the counter, and the tip screen starts at !8% and goes up to 25 or 30% for pre-programmed tip options. This is ridiculous! For as long as I can remember, 15% was the Standard Tip for decent table service where a waiter comes to you to take your order, answers questions, makes recommendations, delivers your meal, and brings you your check. I can see paying 10% for counter service where my food is brought out to me, but 25%??? On top of that, you have the counter clerk looking at (judging?) you while you make your choice (yes, 'Custom Tip' and 'No Tip' are options, if you like to live dangerously). STOP THE MADNESS!
THE VERDICT: Issues with the side dishes, aside, Proper Fish is a real gem. Opening an 'adults only' dining venue is a real blessing to deal with the crowds and noise of their main dining space. I have a feeling PF is going to be a Bainbridge fixture for a LONG time!
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