Pizzeoli sits in historic Soulard and feels like a restored, cozy little pizzeria with dark…read moremulti-colored lights, a soundtrack that drifts between 1920s/30s jazz and the occasional pop or mid-century tune, and a wood-burning oven as the literal and figurative center of gravity. There's a charming patio out front, if you want it. You can settle in for a long dinner, post up at the bar for the night, or grab a quick bite before heading out on the town. Bartenders are warm and approachable, and the in-house mixology is confident without any "we spent 30 hours perfecting this" pretense. The whole experience is like Sam Malone the bartender (save the drama) at Cheers: friendly, self-assured, the kind of place that makes you feel like you could spend all night there without anyone rushing you.
We had a Paper Plane and an Old Fashioned -- the latter served over a custom ice cube stamped with a double ax (a nod to the wood fire). The cocktail list leans classic and reliable: if you know you like gin or vodka, you'll find something easy here. The espresso martini is the standout, it works as a dessert drink or any other time of the meal.
We started with the Smorgasbord instead of our usual garlic knots (which are their own delicacy), and it didn't disappoint: toasted brioche with mascarpone and strawberry jam, several cured meats (capicola, prosciutto, pepperoni), parmesan, gouda, dried cherries, and chutney. My one nitpick; the pepperoni and gouda were tiny cubes, which makes them tough to grab cleanly compared to the sliced parmesan or rolled prosciutto. In this situation give the man a toothpick.
The tallow-fried wings are, in my opinion, the best in St. Louis. The beef-tallow-and-potato-starch breading produces a tempura-like texture and crunch that keeps them light. Adventurous-but-classic sauces, bourbon butter BBQ, buffalo, and pineapple honey habanero (legitimately spicy; bring backup). The wings stand on their own without sauce.
For pizza, we got the Napoli (tomato, fresh and smoked mozzarella, arugula, parmesan, black pepper, olive oil) -- her standing favorite. Expect proper Neapolitan: soft center, thin crust, charred crisp edge. Don't lift and bite fold it. (She insists: no fork. I use a fork - I know how dare I!) The pizza menu reads creative but never gimmicky; meat-lovers, vegetarians, vegans, and gluten-conscious diners all have real options. Before Kyle took over, Pizzeoli was known as a vegan-forward spot, and that flexibility lives on.
We closed with the seasonal ice cream sandwich, fresh-pressed pizzelle wafers, crème brûlée ice cream, and a torched marshmallow cap. Excellent.
A couple of practical notes: they're dinner-only (4-9:30) and the new reservation phone line is a robo call. Easier to use the online waitlist or book online directly.
Pizzeoli is dressed-down-or-dressed-up friendly, kid-welcoming, and somehow works equally well for a pre-game stop or your dinner of the week. I've never had a bad dish here, and there are several I come back for specifically -- Lesley for the Napoli, me for the wings.
4.9 stars out of 5. If that toothpick shows up, a perfect 5. ;)
Worth the trip across town, an hour drive for a long dinner, if it were open for lunch, the suggestion for two trips in one day would be welcomed or two-days in a row.
