In my initial review, I said, "I'd love to see what Yoshi would do with a 20-course nigiri-only omakase in this kind of setting." Well, he now does sushi nights on some Wednesdays, and that's more or less what I was asking for.
Preface: I believe Otoko deserves the highest marks regardless of which menu you purchase. This update will only evaluate how the value of the sushi night compares to the value of the normal menu, and to the city's other premium sushi omakase, Kyoten Sushiko.
The menu isn't all nirigi. It starts with an uncharacteristically rich miso soup from the normal menu, followed by a bowl of Japanese pickles, also from the normal menu, but with octopus mixed in. Then comes a flight of 14 nigiri pieces (and an oyster) rather than the normal menu's shorter 8-piece flight (also with the oyster). It's followed by 3 composed sashimi-based dishes, then 3 pieces of 2 different traditional-style rolls, and finally, a fruit dessert.
In both cases, the sushi flight began with the same 4 items and ended with the same 3. In the middle, instead of clam and masaba, I got 8 new pieces. The menu essentially trades a number of composed dishes of various cooking styles for 6 more nigiri pieces. On this occasion, the composed sashimi dishes were:
* clam with dragon fruit
* sea bass with sugar snap peas, mint, and frozen grape tomatoes
* binchotan-seared hamachi slices (from the normal menu)
The rolls were hamachi & scallion and uni & cucumber, both excellent (particularly the latter). The dessert, a mixture of Japanese pears and peaches, was also a delight.
If you've had the normal menu first, this menu brings 3 themes to mind:
* Yoshi's philosophy on nirigi, since there is more of it
* the quality and variety of the composed dishes, since there are fewer of them
* whether the extra $50 (plus tax and service) represents a good trade-off
Yoshi uses citrus juice, oil, or zest on many pieces to add acidity. The way he applies and incorporates it is skillful and thoughtful, but it serves much the same purpose that a stronger vinegar presence in the rice serves in more traditional nirigi. He also puts big salt crystals on many pieces, which I enjoy. It's essentially a salinity substitute for stronger rice seasoning and the consistent application of nikiri (soy sauce cut with sake and / or mirin). Yoshi does apply nikiri to several pieces, but he sometimes adds salt crystals even to these.
The trade-off is that the rice itself isn't as integral as it traditionally is, and the flavor profile of each piece is more finicky and lively depending on when each element hits your tongue; your taste buds go on more of a journey and encounter more surprises. Rarely (if ever) does Yoshi serve a piece of nigiri with fewer than 3 toppings or garnishes (often more). So you'll like the difference if you enjoy the "perfume" sensation of citrus zest, for example, but not if you don't like the presence of citrus tang. And you may or may not like the crunch of salt crystals and the concentrated bursts of saltiness they provide rather than a more uniform seasoning. Ultimately these matters are a question of personal preference.
My main concern is the way the menu differs from the other high-class sushi omakases I've eaten and loved. There are no gunkanmaki pieces; Yoshi serves his even his uni unbounded. There is no mini-flight of bluefin tuna cuts (I don't require this, and I prefer not to eat bluefin at all unless it's sustainably caught, but it undeniably adds a degree of luxury to a meal of this nature). There is no use of heavier tsume glaze because there is no cooked eel, which the sauce is made from. There is a dearth of shellfish (in this particular menu, only the hotate): no shrimp or prawn(!). And there were no vinegar-cured pieces like saba or kohada (I lamented the absence of the masaba from the normal menu). And, finally, there is no tamago finish, which is often regarded as the single most reliable measure of a sushi chef's talent.
I did enjoy getting to taste a greater variety of high-quality seafood in Yoshi's signature style (particularly the scallop, octopus, and halfbeak), but I don't feel it expanded the overall spectrum of texture and flavor variety on offer in a way that would have justified the higher price point. And the quality and variety of the composed dishes made me miss the greater number of those found in the normal menu.
I'm glad I tried this menu, and if it evolves in the future to be more like what I'm looking for in a sushi omakase, I might give it another try. I just feel that the normal menu is both the better value and the optimal way to experience the best of what this restaurant has to offer; the smaller sushi flight it includes is an adequately-sized sample of Yoshi's talents and a respectable "greatest hits" representation of the longer menu. The normal menu is what will keep me coming back regularly. For now, if I want a sushi night, I'll go to Kyoten Sushiko. read more