A soul-crushingly sad rendition of a neighborhood Italian restaurant.
This place provides a painful, oblivious reminder that posture can't carry the day.
The place looks like it could be pretty good: It has nice lighting and it gave me the impression that it could be one of those beloved family-run Italian restaurants that has been around a long time with homey charm and rustic food.
That went away quickly. Upon inspection of the menu, it featured many items that would be familiar on an Italian menu, then many items that would be featured at a Sizzler. Many if not most mains were accompanied by mashed potatoes (which I view as both a lack of creativity and any interest in flavors that compliment each other), and the starters included what looked to be hot wings. The bartender recommended that I get the roasted garlic and feta "appetizer," which I later saw was at least a whole head of roasted garlic, very little feta, some roast vegetables and what looked to be almost a loaf of sliced toast. Ridiculous. She then recommended the gnocchi with mushrooms and as a main, I ordered the halibut with risotto.
Sounded delightful, but as it was with most of this place, initial reactions gave way to reality. While I waited, she brought bread. Basically, it tasted like automatic breadmaker bread: Weak, flimsy crust and airy interior with little flavor or texture. To accompany it, I was presented with three rather large receptacles of olive oil, garlic and balsamic, and a red pepper olive oil mixture. Wasteful to say the least; awkward for sure. Garish was the word that came to mind.
The gnocchi was a disaster. The gnocchi were average, but what really made this dish truly lousy was the sauce: It was a very heavy gravy and there was quite a bit of gouda accompanying it. It was a very, very heavy, hamhanded dish.
The halibut was equally poor, so much so that I only ate about half although I was quite hungry. There was some sort of nut crust on one side, and a thin layer of uncrispy and very hard to remove skin on the other. The skin was hard to remove because the fish was dreadfully overcooked. The nut crust was unpleasant. The risotto was fine, I guess, if you don't mind a risotto made heavy from a LOT of parmesan. However, the dish was circled with some cloyingly sweet fruit sauce that had no business being on that - or any - plate. Luckily, it was easy to avoid for the few bites I did take.
The wine list itself is rather nice and very well-priced, but the wines by the glass are not. Not like it was worth having a drink there: The behavior of the regulars was atrocious.
All told, with a wonderful restaurant like Michael's so close by in the same if not lower price range, the only reason to patronize this place is a quest for faux nostalgia. read more