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Ever since a fortuitous dinner at Morandi a year ago, I've been wanting to go back. A combination of difficult-to-secure peak hour weekend dinner reservations, a general desire to try different, newer restaurants and the ease of Opentable (where Morandi does not feature) have meant that it's taken me a very long time to return. However, I'm glad I did. And I'm even gladder that I brought some out-of-towner friends, as they were suitably impressed. You really don't have any leeway to mess up when it comes to food in NYC. In a city so saturated with culinary quality, one bad pick could mean you don't know your stuff. And I like to think I know my stuff. Sometimes, I even think I am the stuff. However, in this case, the stuff was clearly Keith McNally.
We'll not discuss the bonus (albeit superficial - but you know me, superficial is superfine by me) aspects of Morandi, like how the crowd tends to be young and hip, how I love the rustic vibe and all that exposed brick, or how their sidewalk seating area is great for people watching on a sunny day. I'm sticking to the food on this one, because I think the menu at Morandi deserves a to be the focus here, and afforded proper respect for being packed with so many standout dishes.
To start, a slew of small plates from the fantastic Antipasti selection. The Calamari alla griglia (grilled squid with peppers, capers and olives) was a wonderfully tasty dish. The little squid rings were just the right texture, firm yet chewy in the way that fresh calamari should be, and the medley of flavors were delicately balanced - salty, sour, savory and sexy. I was initially slightly less enthused by the Fritto misto de pesce (fried platter of calamari, fish and prawn) as the grilled calamari was already so good I wondered how it could be topped. However, the real winner here was the fish: simply put, the best fried fish I've had in a long time. I regret not asking our waiter what kind of fish they used and where Morandi was sourcing this oceanic gold. The meat was unbelievably flaky and melt-in-your-mouth tender, the flavor pristine and sweet. I didn't bother with the marinara dip, these little nuggets of crispy deliciousness had to be savored unadorned. Next, the Focaccia scamorza e cipolline, a beautiful flatbread with smoked cheese, potatoes and onions. The cheese was smooth and luscious, the potatoes added firmness to the texture and the onions brought a gentle sweetness - all atop a lovingly charred, crunchy platform in the focaccia. The Burrata e pachini featured a milky ball of velvety cheese and a bunch of juicy roasted cherry tomatoes on the vine. Each bite brought forth a joyous flood of summer and warmth. The Peperoni friti - blistered shishito peppers - well, I was popping these like pills. One after the other the little green aphrodisiacs made their way into my belly. I couldn't stop. Once every 5-6 peppers, I'd get one with especially spicy seeds - they burnt so good. I washed everything down with two glasses of Pimm's Italiano - a refreshing, lovely take on the traditional Pimm's Cup with an extra dash of bitters for a lush aftertaste.
I was stuffed by the time we ordered our mains, so I went simple, ordering a plate of Pici al limone. Best call of the night. This dish was divine in its simplicity and execution. Just a heap of steamy handrolled spaghetti tossed with lemon juice and parmesan. Literally, that was it. No meat, no veg - just two primary flavors intertwined in a harmonious salty-sour explosion coupled with absolutely perfectly textured pasta that made me a very happy man. I could eat this dish every day. It was like that scene in Ratatouille where the food critic Anton Ego is, with a single bite, transported back to his childhood and reminded of a simpler, more innocent time. It's quite obvious that food does not need to be infused with foie gras, topped with shaved white truffles and then turned into foam via molecular gastronomy to be good. But sometimes we, the dining public, lose sight of that reality. And this was, to me at least, a stark reminder of that fact. read more