Ever since Magnolia Grill closed, I've been on a quest to find its closest local approximation. Spoiler alert: Nana's comes closest.
So it comes as a surprise to me that I had yet to try Mandolin despite their 2 year tenure. In my defense, I live in Durham. I selected Mandolin for my birthday dinner this year so my partner and I braved a half-hour drive through heavy rain and flash flood warnings to arrive for our 6:30PM Sunday reservation.
We were seated promptly, given the standard spiel of how they source all of their ingredients within 100 miles and do not own a freezer, except for the one they keep their sorbets in, of course haha, and our drink order taken. I requested Pellegrino and was told they only serve Badoit, which surprised and delighted me as I've never seen it served outside of France. I remarked that it seemed unusual and our server replied that "we like to be trendsetters." Cute. I'll also have the "Cackalacky in the Summer" cocktail and, really, with a name like that who wouldn't?
Our server sold me on an off-menu foie gras "fried" first course because who can resist fatty liver cooked in fat on their birthday? I asked if the foie gras was really sourced within 100 miles and he replied "of course." How silly of me. I ordered the Chicken & Waffles entree as I can think of very few things more fabulous than haute C&W, and could you please recommend a glass of red wine to accompany my meal? My partner had the "open face BLT" first course and pork chop entree.
The first course came quickly enough, and I learned that "fried foie gras" meant "battered and deep fried foie gras." Why do some restaurants insist on taking such a rich and, let's face it, controversial ingredient with subtle, delicate flavor and completely annihilating it? I should have known better. It came out smelling like fryer oil. The batter was overly greasy and did not cling to the liver well, causing a crunchy mess with just a few strokes of my knife. When I reflect on meals like this, I almost always regret not sending the food back. Oh well, note to self. In addition, I received the first course about 5 minutes before the wine, which was a miserly pour, about 4oz if I had to guess.
My partner's "open face BLT" came with the thickest slices of bacon I think I've ever seen and he remarked that it was quite good.
Our waiter was overall very friendly, professional and accommodating -- at first. Unfortunately, as the night wore on and the restaurant filled, service became very slow. It was clear they were understaffed, however, at this price point it is inexcusable.
When the entrees arrived, the Chicken & Waffles was served on this ridiculous form-over-function plate that curved upward on either side making resting my knife and fork impossible. I resorted to the bread plate (the cornbread was a-ma-zing, by the way). The chicken was battered and deep fried in the exact same manner as the foie gras, which seemed unfortunate at first, but the execution was far better. No fryer oil smell and better batter cling. The greens were heavy on the vinegar but overall it was a totally solid dish. The waffle was perfect and accompanied by warm honey. Delicious.
My partner felt that his pork entree was "decent" and, after trying a bite, I remarked that it was about as good as he makes on our grill at home. The pickled blueberries were interesting.
For dessert I ordered the peach bread pudding and my partner chose the chocolate soufflé. When they finally arrived, the soufflé had fallen well below the rim of the ramekin. Undeterred, the expediter pressed on with his tableside service, pouring the chocolate sauce and expertly applying a dollop of Chantilly cream. The consistency I would describe as brownie-like, but I suppose they can't call it a brownie and then charge $8. The peach bread pudding was very good, the peaches tasting particularly fresh.
With the final damage including 20% tip (I generally do not believe in witholding any amount of tip from a server unless the service is really awful and within their control) coming in at over $160 and its Fearrington House pedigree, I expected a lot more from Mandolin. That's $160 for one cocktail, one glass of wine (my partner did not drink), one liter of Badoit, and two of each first course, entree and dessert. It's worth a trip, but only one, as there are far better dining values in the area.
Highs: Ambiance, Badoit, cornbread, cocktail, entrees (mostly).
Lows: Battered and deep fried foie gras, meager serving of wine by the glass, slow service, chocolate "soufflé," price. read more