Squealing like a little girl, he agitatedly got up from the metal stool and held up the thread he had just discovered in his Styrofoam plate.
"I didn't expect this place to be very hygienic", said Boss-Man. "but, is this your way of sticking it to me?"
"Relax. That thread is supposed to be there", as I explained the dish to him: 'Gola Kabab' is the softest (and perhaps most delicious) Kabab you can possibly have, with an absolute melt-in-the-mouth texture! (Since that day, Boss-man is also a big fan).
The meat is minced (beaten into submission would be more like it), a plethora of fiery hot spices are added to it, it's put around the skewer and tied together with a string. Basically, the meat is so soft that it would fall off the skewer, if the string weren't holding it in place. You need to eat it hot off the skewer, otherwise the magic's gone.
Kababish claims to be the first restaurant in North America to offer Gola Kabab, and I have no reason to dispute that assertion. This is (almost) a lost art with few practitioners remaining in India (Delhi) as most skilled 'Kababchi' (Kabab chef, much like a pizzaiolo) migrated to Pakistan at the time of India's independence from the Brits.
The skilled kabab chef at Kababish is a humble, soft spoken, bearded gentleman from Karachi (Pakistan), who is respectfully addressed as 'Chacha' (Uncle) within the place. He is leagues ahead of other practitioners in the U.S. It's a skill that few fully appreciate. The Kababchi has to be both good at the proportion of spices used and knowing when to take the skewer out of the oven, to avoid it being over/under cooked. Chacha is simply brilliant. You can tell the difference between his work and that of the others, and so I don't advise anyone to come here on his day off (usually Thursday).
Kababish is almost a catering kitchen (though by intent: a take-out restaurant) and sadly, there is no seating capacity like most 'street food' places in India and Pakistan. It has many claims of distinction, including the introduction of Haryali Kabab, and using charcoal to barbecue and bring out the smokiness in the meat. Other than Bihari Kabab (specialty of the nearby Kabab King Diner), they rule when it comes to Kababs.
The food is consistently fresh, even for the curries that are on slow heat up front. Selection is limited to ensure rapid turnover. Some of these are greasy, but if you're in the mood for curry I do recommend the Chicken Achari, Karahi, Nihari, Brain Masala, and on the weekend: the Matka Gosht (slow cooked overnight for extra tenderness).
Their desserts (Ras Malai and Carrot Halwa) are competent, though not the best around. But, you won't find Pakistani food in NYC as good as this. I was pleasantly surprised to see Jeff O's review as these guys don't hold back on heat. 5 stars to him for handling it, and appreciating the quality food, despite the obvious inconveniences (lack of : seating, wash room, table ware, etc. etc.). He knows exceptional value when he sees it!
Be nice to "Chacha". You too will walk away bowled over by his hospitality, and craft. read more