There's a reason Fedora has serious staying power in the West Village. The popular supper club has been on my radar for several years at this point, and for some reason I only got around to visiting this past Saturday. Perhaps I knew it would still be there waiting for me, still as formidable as ever. Fedora is part of HC Hospitality, the same group that runs other well-known, West Village powerhouses such as Joseph Leonard, Jeffery's Grocer and Bar Sardine. It's not surprising, then, that Fedora feels like the quintessential West Village venue: it's cozy and intimate, nestled off 7th Ave South, and it boasts small menus that are masterfully constructed and executed. Though a heavily-trafficked spot (particularly on weekends), service was superb throughout.
Made a reservation (pretty much mandatory here if you want seats) for a table at 8:15 on a Saturday night. You can reserve bar seating or table seat here, so it's unlikely you'll see an empty chair here as a walk-in. Just keep your eye on Resy and you'll be fine. The space itself is warm and intimate, lively with a subtle old-timey feel. Fedora is one of the many sub-street level venues in the area, which lends itself to the feeling of longevity you get here. Though it's an excellent spot for a date, keep in mind that Fedora is kind of a bar-restaurant hybrid, so the weekend rush/noise level at primetime is significant. It didn't detract at all from our experience, just fun to observe.
I suppose that's as good of a segue as I'll get (read: allow myself) into Fedora's cocktail program. Between me and the bf, I got to try four drinks, all of which outstanding. The menu here is well-thought-out, varied, creative and elegant. Innovative combinations and intelligent twists-on-classics.
My first drink was the No Shrubs (Lemon Verbana gin, yellow chartreuse, apple cider vinegar, walnut bitters), which gets extra props for the name. Somehow both familiar and adventurous. You might think Last Word but the ACV and walnut bitters shake it up. So good. The bf tried the Hey There, Bedroom Eyes (Cocoa-infused banks rum, campari, byrhh, orange oil), which wasn't his favorite but I personally loved it. Rich, perfectly-balanced, excellent for winter. Second round was the Black Squirrel Old Fashioned (Bourbon, Cherry Heering, maple, pecan bitters) for me and the Godspeed (red win, Jamaican rum, allspice dram, honey, citrus ginger beer) for him. That Old Fashioned is something special. A bit sweeter than your typical Old Fashioned but still grounding and warming from the nuttiness of the bitters.
Food-wise, I really don't think you can go wrong here. The menu is fairly small so if you're into sharing, you can conquer a good portion of it with a small party size. Good balance of raw, cooked, meats, seafood, veggies. Exciting, elegant and sophisticated yet--similar to feel of the beverage program--familiar and comforting. A delicate balance that was seemingly struck effortlessly. Our eats, below:
Spanish Mackerel Crudo w/ whipped ricotta, garlic chips, dill: A+
Fresh, creamy, melt-in-your mouth good. Beautiful flavor combination here with the addition of the dill. Soft, silky, elegant. If you're looking for some extra texture, there are some crisps both sprinkled on top and to the side.
Steak Tartare w/ smoked cream, trout roe, herb croutons: A+
Flavorful and fun. Steak tartare is an easy go-to for me, and this was one of the better ones I've had. Every little component had its place and was in sync with the rest. Light but still powerful.
Shiitake, Trumpet & Oyster Mushrooms w/ poached egg and brown butter: A+
Decadent and warming. I love the bringing out the richness and complexity in mushrooms, and this dish was it for me. The egg and brown butter were just divine. Even the wary-casual mushroom eater will delight in this.
Hemp-Crusted Pollock w/ leeks, asparagus, meyer lemon: A
I'm always 50-50 on ordering white fish entrees because they run the risk of being bland and boring. This was approached, constructed and executed beautifully. The hemp was a fabulous touch, the flavors were delicate and earthy so as not to overpower the flavor of the pollock.
Brussels Sprouts w/ Cider, Bacon: A+
Nothing fancy about this one. Heaven in every bite. I love bacon, I love cider and I love Brussels. Brussels with bacon bits are great. Brussels with real chunks of thick-cut bacon, even better. Add was sweetness and a little char and you've got yourself a more-than-worthy side. read more