We walked into Peony Kitchen for a Sunday lunch after a friend recommended the place. I went in not…read moreknowing anything about the restaurant at all (I hadn't even glanced at the menu), other than the promising statement that it was always full of Chinese people chowing down on great Chinese food.
When we got there at noon, the place was completely barren, nary a customer in sight. Not promising.
Service at Peony is not good. While a couple of other parties walked in during our visit, the dining room was never particularly busy and the single waiter on staff could easily have taken care of all of us. First strike - one person in our party asked for no ice in their soda. Guess what appeared? A cup full of ice. Second strike - water refills were never delivered during the entire meal. It's literally a carafe, not even individual water cups. Third strike - we sat close to 20 minutes after finishing our meal waiting for the check. Not a single employee was seen in the dining room during this entire time span.
The food at Peony is just as poor as the service.
Chicken Chow Fun ($25) - This is the saucy and wet type of chow fun, smothered in a Chop Suey-style brown goop gravy that looks downright unappealing after congealing into a wet puddle underneath the noodles. Depending on brand/type, the wide rice noodles used for Chow Fun can come stacked. The cook separates them out and cuts to size for service. In Peony's case, the cook was so lazy that they didn't even perform the basic separation step, resulting in large mounds of noodles, several 3 or 4 thick, glued together in a gloopy mess. Even with all the noodle overlap, somehow they are completely overcooked to the point of being mush. The dish in general is unbalanced. The focus on the dish should be on the noodles and the flavor of the wok hei (which, to their credit, is there). The meat is essentially an accompaniment to add spice and variety. This dish, on the other hand, has far too much meat, with the chicken adding up to perhaps 75% the mass of the dish as a whole. The meat is cut into uneven chunks and is lazily thick cut into large pieces. The one positive is that the chicken is tender. (1/5)
Beef Chow Fun ($25) - This dish is somehow worse than the chicken despite the only change being a difference in protein. The chef was even lazier with this dish, with the noodles in almost all cases being 6 or even 7 layers thick. Seriously just take a look at my photo. This is by far the worst rendition of beef chow fun I've ever eaten. (1/5)
Bacon with Chinese Cauliflower ($25) - As with the above two, this dish is extremely sloppy. The cut on the cauliflower isn't made with any particular care. It's like they just randomly started chopping the head up, creating pieces that most Chinese restaurants would be embarrassed to serve to guests. Throughout the dish, we found cauliflower pieces where the delicate top florets were hacked off, leaving only the woody stem and the branching connections. The cauliflower itself is somewhat (but not severely) undercooked leaving some thicker pieces to a hard crisp snap. It's mixed with pieces of both Chinese sausage and Chinese bacon, but neither are wok seared or crisped up in any fashion. If I had to guess, I'd say they were steamed until soft and tender, which is not enjoyable in this dish. The cauliflower is then doused in the same brown goop that infests the chow fun. (2/5)
Firecracker Tofu ($26) - They use extra firm tofu for this dish and don't cook it long enough, leaving the cubes mealy, crumbly, and dry on the interior. The fry is decent, giving a somewhat crisp skin but the interior texture is not good. It's not spicy despite the name. (2/5)
Spicy Crispy Fish Fillet ($30) - This was the only dish without any deep technical issues. They use the same batter as the tofu and then fry. The fish is actually tender and moist on the inside, although there's a slight fishy taste. The fish is dressed with fried crunchy bits, but they seem to have been sitting for a while given the soggy texture. (4/5)
Peony Kitchen's slogan is plastered all over their takeout bags: "The Best Chinese Restaurant in Bellevue™" (They seriously trademarked this). I beg to differ. Not only is Peony not the best Chinese restaurant in Bellevue, it's not even the best Chinese restaurant on the block. I'd pick Dough Zone across the street 10 out of 10 times.
Maybe the mention of Dough Zone isn't fair since Peony is an Americanized Chinese restaurant. But I don't have a problem with American Chinese food. I have a problem with food using piss poor preparation and technique (not to mention severely overpriced), and that is exactly what Peony serves.
Bathrooms - Two unisex rooms down a dark hallway. During initial service the lights were turned off and I had to use my phone flashlight to locate the switch.
Note: Peony Kitchen has an 18% service charge. This is disclosed on the menu.
Food: [2/5]
Service: [--]
Other: [-]
Final Rating: 2/5