tl;dr the moody, hyper-modern atmosphere is matched by an eclectic, upscale menu spanning the…read morebreadth of Chinese cuisine; however, only some of the dishes offer a satisfaction to match the sky-high prices
Array 36 is a relatively new entry in the San Gabriel Valley scene, but it quickly turned heads. Named in reference to a Chinese proverb (which names 36 monumental moments that a person experiences in their lifetime), Array offers upscale pan-Chinese cuisine intended to match the grandeur of monumental events. Now, Array joins a select group of ultra-premium SGV Chinese restaurants, offering an eclectic set of labor-intensive dishes hailing from Shanghai to Chongqing.
From the outside, Array has wavy, avant-garde cement walls and a red carpet leading up to the sturdy, cast-metal double doors. Enter the opulent lobby, featuring a recessed ceiling light projecting through a thin layer of water and an LED whale illuminating a ceiling-high fountain. Past the fountain, you'll find a dimly lit dining room with nature motifs intermittently protecting against the otherwise dark, cavernous atmosphere. In contrast, private rooms along the periphery are comfortably bright and individually themed. Close the doors, and you almost entirely block out the ambient chatter and moody instrumental.
I visited Array for a friend's birthday celebration. Across our feast, some of the consensus favorites were the Shanghai-Style Smoked Fish with Preserved Plums (crispy, sweet, and savory all in one) and the Stewed Sliced Fish in Wine Sauce (featuring fresh filets tossed in a thick, rich rice wine sauce). I also enjoyed the flavorful Crispy Prawns in Plum Sauce and the Teppanyaki Drunken Pork Neck. The signature Roast Duck was a show and craft in itself, artfully flambeed in baiju and smoked at table side, then served with the traditional accoutrements of pancakes, duck sauce, Asian pear, and brown sugar. Other dishes were on the better side of standard, including the Mapo Tofu with Ground Pork, the Snow Pea Leaves Stir Fry with Garlic, and the Spicy Vermicelli Hotpot (with some noodles crisping up against the stone bowl). The signature Sous-Vide Sichuan-Style Beef Short Ribs was more memorable for the plethora of spices and sauces on the sides, rather than the actual meat. Lastly, some items were one-dimensional or forgettable, including the bone-heavy Sizzling Chicken Clay Pot and Steamed Fish Ginger and Scallions; the starchy Stir-Fried Japanese Yam, Wood Ear and Pumpkin; and the plain Braised Pork and Vegetable Rice.
The prices leaned toward premium (appetizers and veggies are ~$20, entrees are $30-40, and signature items reach $100); the service failed to match the prices, as some of our dishes were forgotten, and beverages were rarely refilled. The best dishes were excellent, but most plates didn't exceed "standard" by too much. I probably won't go out of my way to pay Array a repeat visit, but I will still be dreaming about that delicious rice wine-stewed fish.