It's a chilly, gray morning in Austin, rain is coming down in sheets blanketing the city in a misty veil. The only thing on your mind for weeks has been bagel... bagel... bagel. You know in your heart that Biderman's is the only thing close Austin has to a NY Jewish Deli, so you meander through the dreary streets away from your office to perchance have your long prophesied encounter with the perfect ring of dough. Through the haze you see the simple, unassuming cafe, standing resolute in the mostly empty strip mall.
Emerging into the fluorescent light, you're greeted cheerily by the warm cashier, Trinity, a welcome change from the bleary outside world. The display case is filled with an array of bagel choices, each one adorned with a glistening sheen and perfectly golden crust. She swiftly rings in your order, accounting for your order of bagels and lox and a large coffee, when a new muse appears, Charlie. They exchange niceties with you as you anxiously await your feast. Charlie abashedly assures you that your meal was made with love and the duet wishes you well as you exit the delicatessen.
The sumptuous repast taunts you on the journey through the murky morning, when finally you are able to have your long anticipated rendezvous with the jollification that is YOUR bagel with lox.
An everything bagel, its surface flecked with soft and toasty seeds; sharp, aromatic spices, dried alliums, and coarse salt, promising a delightful crunch with every bite is expertly sliced, toasted to a warm, golden hue, and slathered with a generous layer of cream cheese. Bespeckling the already perfect confection is a flawless scattering of capers, lying within the cream cheese so as not to tumble to an unfortunate demise. Resting atop this idyllic landscape is a sublime layer of delicate smoked salmon, seemingly winking at you as if it was still swimming upstream in a small Canadian tributary. The cherry on top is delicate slices of interwoven tomatoes and red onions.
As you take your first bite, the bagel's crust offers a satisfying snap, giving way to the soft, chewy interior. Your everything bagel is a delightful mosaic of textures and savorings. A harmonious symphony of flavors explodes in crescendo. The cream cheese with its creamy richness provides the bassline, and the lox, in all its silky, briny goodness, melts in your mouth giving way to the flutists solo while the capers and red onion provide a sharp, zesty contrast that elevates every bite rounding the concerto out as percussion.
With each opulent bite, you're transported to an oasis of sheer bliss. A harmonious duet that dances upon your taste buds as your indulgence continues. The lox, as delicate as morning dew, in all of its brackish velvet elegance, is the foil to every star of this show. Each morsel devoured is an orchestra of taste. Charlie indeed told no lies, for she has created her magnum opus. The gentle rain outside seems to serenade your senses, harmonizing perfectly with the exquisite notes of a culinary masterpiece one has only once, perhaps twice, in a lifetime, making this cold, rainy morning in Austin an utterly enchanting and unforgettable experience.
Bravo, Biderman's, bravo. read more