Doto is set in the Virgil Village-Silverlake grey zone in a whimsically decorated boxy building…read morewith extensive patio for balmy nights and warm winter days.
The interior is made more inviting and warm by good use of natural wood where there is bar and table seating. Doto has a feel that seems to hark back to the late 1960's...laid back, hang loose, unpretentious, back to nature.
The true pillar of Doto is Tom, the owner, who is the host with the most. Peripatetic, he has his hands everywhere in a good way, making sure his ship of state runs like a finely tuned watch.
He is helpful, thoughtful, kind, gracious, aware. I appreciate his going above and beyond in a gesture that is truly trois étoiles Guide Michelin level. I believe he sets the pace for his staff who also try to emulate his elevated style. TJ, our waiter, was jovial, outgoing, patient with our crew of 6.
In Latin, doto means "I endow" or "I provide with a dowry." In Japanese: Dotō = raging waves; Dōtō = equality; Dōto = Buddhist temple. But unfortunately there is no meaning for just Doto except Do can mean earth or soil. Anyway, I was endowed much kindness by Tom.
1) Smoked Lamb Pita Ras el Hanout; Feta; Sumac Onions; Kombu Pickles; Greens all in a rustic, lightly charred thick Pita flat bread.
The condiments inside adds texture, acidity, gastrique, dried sour fruitiness from the Sumac, sea Umami. The soft, creamy, Feta goat cheese adds a bit of dairy funk and from the onion. Italian style dressing seems drizzled with vinegar, oily, herbal notes.
The mildly smoked, moist, meaty lamb is reminiscent of Pastrami since the Ras el Hanout spice blend is probably cured with the lamb meat to create mild yet complex flavours.
Ras el Hanout: Can contain cumin, ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg, cloves or other spices. It is from the Northern African Mediterranean cuisine tradition.
Generous portion and volume, this is a meal in itself. You can also add their exemplary seemingly twice fried Belgian style, crispy pommes frites.
2) Intrigued by the Chāshū Handroll. Not the traditional Chinese premarinated, roasted hanging in the oven style pork. It seemed more like a pot roast braised in sweet Shōyu/soy sauce.
Sushi rice sprinkled with Japanese rice vinegar. Refreshing, Japanese cucumber; creamy, vegetal fatty avocado; earthy Yama Gobō/pickled, fibrous, salty, mountain burdock root; scallions. All wrapped in Nori seaweed "paper". This Sushi roll is definitely for those only into land meat.
1-2a) Akabu Ginga Junmai Ginjo class Premium Sakè (sah keh): Smooth, silky, delicately sweet with soupçon of bitterness for balance. Acidic, with ripe autumn pear, cinnamon spice, aromatic lacquer reminding me of Auslese style Riesling.
3) Affogato: Vanilla ice cream drowning in rich, dark, bitter Espresso with addition of
Kōji Caramel. Kōji is a beneficial mold that helps make Sakè (sah keh), Shōyu, Miso paste. Nice way to end the meal.
After dinner, I poked around the inside before leaving, and the dark haired, moustached staff member accompanied me giving a short commentary of the restaurant features that I appreciated. It reminded me of another occasion in the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek in Dallas where I was also treated with graciousness.
The eclectic food with emphasis on Izakaya based Japanese cuisine is so L.A. that hosts and encourages eclectic diversity. Doto reflects that ethos beautifully. My experience of the exquisite kindness by Tom and staff also seals the deal for 5 stars.