I've been to Banya 5 a total of three times now, and each time is a little different. This is due to the ebb and flow of humans in this beautiful, but indeed smallish, space. This last time around, my friend and I were attended to by a really friendly, helpful guy. For the uninitiated, the setup is easy: you're given a clean pair of flip-flops (unless you've brought your own), two towels, maybe a bathrobe (in my experience, you have to request one), and a stretchy strap with keys to a locker in the locker room. Any valuables are typically checked into the front desk lockers, and you'll get a different key on the strap for that. For the cover price, you can linger as long as you like.
From here on out, just know that everything is small. Locker room is bare-bones, but they do provide blow dryers if you even care what you look like after you emerge, clean as a new pearl, from the baths afterward.
Banya feels expansive and perfect when it's slow, and very small when it's packed. I'm not an experienced bathhouse-goer, so plunging into a small pool clustered with five people is more social than I typically feel. If you are highly extroverted you will have no problem with this; if you're more like me, your experience here will hinge on how many other people had the same inspired idea to hit Seattle's only Russian bathhouse at the same time you did. Note that I'm a great lover of people, surrounded by an outer crust of sincere misanthropy...
The sequence suggested to me by someone in the know is to first hit the sauna (typically it is VERY hot) for as long as you can stand it (typical is 10 minutes or thereabouts), then the ice-cold pool (steel yourself), for at least a few minutes. You'll get a taste of spearmint in your mouth after a few minutes, and that is said to be the stage where your body is detoxing. I couldn't explain why this is so, even under interrogation, but one of the owners told me, so ask him :)
Next is the tepid, salty pool. This one's highly prized, so while timing and strategy are critical, you'll be well rewarded for your efforts. It's relaxing to put your head back, submerge your ears to drown out any ambient noise, and gaze up at the perfect lighting--large metal hoops like embroidery rings covered with a frosted glass to keep the light muted and relaxing.
All of the times I've been here, people have been convivial but not loud or disrespectful. Sometimes there are canoodling couples, but again, people are Seattle-polite...even though the preponderance of accents suggests that for many people, Seattle's at best a second home, if not just a rest stop.
There's also a complementary tea/nap/board game room upstairs-a sort of semicolon break before your pool soak re-initiation sequence.
Call ahead to determine how busy it is if you prefer a quieter experience. If you like it social, after-work crowds are usually brisk and enthusiastic. The happy, burnished-clean-as-beach-glass glow from here lasts a good while; I still feel radiant this morning.
Seattle-ites should enjoy this place while it's still a *somewhat* secret reservoir of aaaaaaahhhhh. It would also be a fun experience for any tourist looking to untwist the tension of traveling in unfamiliar surrounds. That said, the blissful, bleary state you leave in makes you a prime target for a mugging, because I guarantee you, no one puts anyone in a headlock after leaving Banya 5.
Update: Banya 5 now has an app for getting a live total bather count! It's unrated as of yet, but you might consider giving that a shot if you like calibrating your sociability expectations. read more