I'd heard about backbar. Heard that, like its name, it was secret, hidden, a speakeasy with upscale cocktails. Oooh! What fun! I'm a fan of Drink and Marliave and The Townshend, three places I frequent because of their skill at adulterating my favorite liquid: bourbon. Liquor doesn't need much, and so care must be taken. That's my philosophy.
I've also been to Manifesto in Kansas City a couple of times, which is, as far as I can tell, what backbar is aiming for: a James Beard kinda "outstanding bar program" experience. I don't get over to Union Square that much anymore, at least for frou-frou cocktails, so when I knew I'd be there, I carved out a bit of time to sample the backbar.
(Don't ask me about parking. It's Somerville, for godsakes. At your own risk.)
Like Manifesto, and in keeping with the speakeasy vibe, backbar's entrance is in an alley behind some popular noshing places in Union Square. The door is modestly marked (you'll miss it if you don't know it's there), which is mos'def part of the schtick. It's not a bad schtick! But it doesn't end there. Once in the door, you have to trust that the long unmarked hallway will lead you to ... something. I'd seen this kind of thing before so I knew to keep going. When we finally got THERE, we were pleasantly surprised. It's a smallish rectangular space with high ceilings and clever urban-type markings -- tags and graffiti and such. It's filled with people-friendly seating arrangments -- sofas and whatnot -- with a small bar at the far end. The night we were there around nine p.m. the place had a smattering of guests: maybe eight people in groups scattered in the chairs and another eight at the small bar.
When we reached the bar, I could see immediately that there were two open seats on either side of a couple. Before I could rub two brain cells together to assess the situation to decide whether or not I wanted to ask them to adjust or to simply take one of the open tables near the bar, the hostess (I think? or maybe the floor server? I couldn't tell) asked us if we wanted to sit at the bar and when we said yes, she very politely asked the folks to adjust. They did. It took all of 30 seconds. So far, tons of great vibe and good points for the front of the house at backbar!! Thank you for paying attention!
(As I've said before, a bar is like a subway. If it's busy, take up only your allotted space. If it's not busy, manspread all you want.) (And I've also said, management should manage the bar. Don't make customers engage in hand-to-hand combat just to get a seat at a bar, especially when seats are available but blocked by other patrons. A good bar program is going to pay attention: see Drink, Manifesto, The Townshend....)
All of that is the good news -- ambiance, management, space....
The bad news is the drink menu. It reads like a fantasy for 21-year-olds who haven't recovered from being 13-year-olds. The drinks are all Harry Potter and the Pop Culture of Sugar and Spice. There's nothing sophisticated or pre-prohibition. Nothing grownup. Nothing that says, We respect these liquors of the gods. It feels like having to navigate a combination of Pumpkin Spice and Fireball in a Tiki Mug. They're probably five minutes from a scorpion bowl. Those kinds of drinks have their place -- at the local Chinese restaurant or the coffee shop in Walmart but not at a craft cocktail bar.
An abiding principle of art is that less is often more. An artist must make choices. Whoever is doing this list is adding waywayway too much to everything. My off-menu Old Fashioned, for example, was wicked-sweet, contaminated by too much of everything. The liquor should be enhanced delicately, not smothered with sugar.
Along with this was the bartender. She was sweet and kind and willing but seemed clueless in regards to the ingredients or history of what she was doing. I expect a bartender at a sophisticated bar program to know what she's doing. Full stop. If not, I'll go elsewhere. And that's ultimately why this place gets 3 stars from me. Would I go out of my way to return? No.
I'm also aware that I've written this review based on one visit, albeit a visit that took into account the menu.
For what it's worth. Your mileage may vary. I hope I'm wrong.
tl:dr: great space, tres hospitable; bad menu; weak bartender; uber-sweet whiskey drink read more