Reviews are inherently subjective, but an assessment of a barbecue joint can be especially polarizing. We all have our own notions of what comprises good barbecue; some folks prefer lean brisket over moist, others prefer a dry rub instead of sauce, and a vocal minority of 'cue snobs/neurotics are almost impossible to please. When sizing up a barbecue joint, I consider first and foremost the trifecta of smoked meats: brisket, pork ribs, and sausage. Other items (chicken, turkey, beef ribs, sides, etc.) and factors (service, atmosphere) certainly influence my opinion, but the trifecta is what matters the most. With that in mind, B Daddy's BBQ is a resounding success.
B Daddy is the nickname bestowed upon owner/part-time pitmaster B.R. Anderson, a Helotes native whose BBQ business began with a popular food truck and then settled at its current brick-and-mortar location, an historic WWI barracks and home to several former restaurants. Unlike the building's former occupants, B Daddy's has flourished due in part to Anderson's astute business acumen and some of the best barbeque in greater San Antonio.
The setup is cafeteria style; you cue up (no pun intended) to the counter, order your meats by the pound, slide you tray to the right, order your sides, and then pay at the opposite end. It's well organized unit run by team of friendly, knowledgeable employees eager to offer recommendations ("Burnt ends are really good today"). The only downside to this "I want a little of this and a little of that" system is that it exploits the human tendency to over order. The good news is that most of the meats and sides make for delicious leftovers.
B Daddy's touts its prime-graded, oak-smoked brisket available in several iterations, including an indulgent BBQ nacho platter swimming in processed American cheese, but I recommend savoring it unadorned or with just a few dollops of house-made, molasses-based sauce. The brisket possesses all the qualities I would expect from a prime-graded cut: a crusty salt-and-pepper bark, intense oak smoke, and plenty of intramuscular fat.
The pitmasters at B Daddy's (B.R., his son Kyle, and several others), have found the ideal balance between tender and firm pork ribs, with flesh that pulls away from the bone with minimal effort. A crust of salt, pepper, paprika, and brown sugar adorns a half-inch ring of smoke and helps the pork retain its moisture. Though I love the cherry-glazed ribs from Two Bros. BBQ, the ones offered at B Daddy's are different but every bit as delicious. EDIT: the business owner kindly pointed out that paprika is not a component. I stand corrected, though I do taste something spicy on the ribs!
Few barbecue joints make their own sausage (a messy, labor-intensive operation), and B Daddy's is no exception. Unlike many lesser establishments, however, Anderson sources his sausage (regular and a Cheddar option) from a local supplier, Schott's Meat Processing in Helotes. It's a spicy, all-natural variety given plenty of snap and smoke from the pits.
Aside from the holy trifecta of brisket, pork ribs, and sausage, B Daddy's offers a respectable chicken leg quarter (juicy throughout and a bargain at $3), a Kansas City-inspired pulled pork, and a weekend special worthy of a drive from anywhere in San Antonio: prime-graded beef ribs. The latter feature the same salty, peppery crust as the brisket but with extra fattiness (think ribeye steak) and marrow flavor from the accompanying bone. Anderson and team offer these bad boys at market price (typically $20/pound), but the quality justifies the price.
Sides include a coleslaw elevated with creamy chipotle, green beans with bacon, and an outstanding jalapeno Cheddar creamed corn with a consistency that reminded me of Canadian cheese soup (a good thing, mind you). The only disappointment came in the form of a boring, underseasoned side of pinto beans, an odd oversight from a kitchen brimming with so much talent. Skip the beans and order a larger portion of creamed corn.
The small dining area fills up quickly most evenings, so I recommend arriving as early as possible to avoid the crowds of carnivorous locals. 'Cue snobs will likely recommend the trendy, overhyped 2M over B Daddy's, but the difference in quality is negligible. In fact, I would pit (again, no pun intended) B Daddy's trifecta against 2M's 'cue any day. I'm fortunate to live a short distance away, but I would happily frequent B Daddy's regardless of where I lived (well...maybe not if I lived in Saskatchewan, but I digress). read more