Modern dining, inviting, exciting, on the border of Back Bay.
Troop of Boston-area friends in the restaurant business start-up a new place on Mass Ave.
Designed to be comfortable, inviting and the sort of place you'd like to go to in the neighborhood. And so I showed up one day as the incoming blizzard was on Boston's doorsteps. At first I was thinking it was a budget sort of place, replacing the old pizzeria that was in the space before, but then quickly realizing I may be in for more than I bargained when presented by a complimentary champagne / sparkling wine, amuse bouche and a menu on one page. Odds and ends chairs, sparse decoration, seems to emphasize raw materials; gives you some insight into their concept. Get rid of all the surface luxuries and silly restaurant formalities and get right to the business of things.
The interior is staged with everything laid bare. Simple chairs (although smart observers will recognize the notable designers), benches and tables under dim lighting give way to angled bars in the back, with the kitchen cooking area in full view, spot lights and all. In fact you can walk right in if you wanted. The entire restaurant is on show and the staff are the cast. Everyone shares duties and the cooks come out to serve the meal and to explain their dishes and their craft. Foodies will love this bit of fun and theatre. Recommend grabbing the bar seats. Strike up a conversation with your bar mates and enjoy the show.
As others have noted they've decided to go with three set menus. Based on the initial menu, $45 for three dishes representing the budget-end, for more traditional tastes, a $70 five course for the more adventurous and finally a $95 eight course, seafood heavy menu, which will be a stretch for those with terrestrial tastes. For an additional $40 you can get customized wine pairings from their sommelier, well worth it. I'm not sure what category to put the food into, but its definitely american modern cuisine, well rooted in traditional french cookery.
Some reviewers have bemoaned that these menus leave them feeling hungry. But I'm of the opinion that those willing to spend their coin on a meal like this are (and to my mind, should be) looking for an experience, not just sustenance. My thinking is if you are chock-full of food, its really hard to make it to the last dish and actually enjoy it if you are trying to stave-off blacking out from a full belly. I have childhood memories being at the mercy of a Big Boys all you can eat buffet. A nice thing about set menus is that it gets you to try things you wouldn't normally go for. On the other hand, some may be turned off if nothing in the grouping is appealing. But if you are not willing to try something a little different, not sure why you would be at Asta in the first place.
I went for the five-course menu, and picked up an alsatian riesling. Some thoughts:
Carrot risotto: bits of carrot cut to resemble grains of rice in a carrot puree, topped off with some rye crunchy bits and sharp mustard oil, nice contrast in texture, and taste. Keeps if from being too sweet and carroty
Scallop: one large scallop that has been "unwound" into a singular steak strip and seared. Amazing bit of knife work. Sauce adds a nice contrast of acid and sweet with the coriander/seafood combination appealing to asian tastes (or at least thats what I thought, it might not be uniquely asian).
Braised celery: half a celery that has been seared and then braised in a tasty stock. Served with herbed gnocchi. Tastes remind you of Sunday stuffing. A very unique dish. But, if it were not for the dim lighting, the gnocchi which took on a dark appearance were swimming in a brownish liquid, could be mistaken for detritus. Maybe figure out a different way to serve it, perhaps as a patty. Despite the presentation, one of the highlights in the menu.
Venison loin: cooked to perfection. No need to dress this up too much, just enjoy your meat.
Apple cake: a nice hot apple cake served on a cheddar cheese sauce. I liked that the cheese sauce was not made sweet, but retained the edge of the cheese. Good flavor combination.
All in all, although I was intending for a simple meal at the end of my work day, I was pleasantly treated to a great meal. Hope that they change the menu monthly so that I'll have an excuse to visit again. Not sure I would go back to eat the same things over and over again. Definitely more inviting to go to than Deuxave down the street, although more impressive in its decor and more formal service. read more