It is always a welcome addition to the Chicago restaurant scene when another small, neighborhood restaurant doing food from heart and soul opens...
Antico is tiny. 10 4-top tables, and 2 booths. A tiny bar with no space for waiting. There is a very welcoming patio bench and table setup out front. Right now though, one would need a brolly and mac out there braving the elements.
The menu is small, but there are specials galore. On this visit, we felt lucky having our table waiting when we walked in 10 minutes earlier than our booking time. Seafood specials galore. To start, we decided on the Cuttlefish Fritti, and a special of Chitarra with Octopus. The fried cuttlefish, and specially the fried lemon slices, hinted at promises of sunnier days. I found it a tad over-salted though, and the breading too thick. The pasta, on the other hand, was perfect. Soft textured, with a nice bite. Small slices of octopus punctuated by garlicky oil.
We were sharing the starters. When the food runner came, he plopped down one dish each in front of us. We waited a bit to get someone's attention to get plates. 3 quarters of the way through the starters, the silverware for our entrees were laid down. A few moments later, our entrees came.
The entrees: Lamb Loin Chops with Parmigiano Gratin, and a special of Veal Chop Milanese. The lamb was very well seasoned. There were minor temperature differences between the 2 chops, but that's nothing major. The gratin was one of the most delicious potato dishes I've had. The texture and flavor was just spot on. All night, you could hear pounding coming from the kitchen for the Milanese. A minor annoyance when I was rewarded with a giant flat piece of fried meat larger than the dinner plate. The large bone attached added to the Flintstone mood. A whole mess of arugula and grape tomatoes covered most of the meat. This was heaven on a platter. It reminded me of a similar dish I've had in Florence called Orecchia di Elefante (yes, elephant ears!). The traditional breading was crispy and flavorful. The subtly sweet dressing on the salad was a nice tie-in and counterpoint to the meat.
A variety of dessert items sounded enticing. But given this was Black Saturday, what would have been more appropriate than a plate of Zeppole? 4 large pieces of nicely fried dough sprinkled liberally with powdered sugar. For $3! These days, there are single doughnuts that cost just as much, and you have to stand in line for 2 hours to get it.
Why 3 stars? Antico is a good neighborhood place serving genuinely authentic Italian food. There were a few pacing and service kinks that hopefully can be ironed out in due time. I don't live in the area, but this is one of those places where I wish I do. read more