Everyone in America - and most of the world - knows about Buffalo's chicken wings.
Far fewer people are aware of the local delight known as beef on weck, a simple roast beef sandwich elevated by caraway, rock salt, and tradition.
But Buffalo's real secret, the lunch-on-a-budget, take-some-home-cuz-you'll-never-do-it-this-well-yourself dish, is chicken souvlaki.
Locals differ over where to find the best version of this specialty. Towne; Emily's, Wehrle Diner and others all attract followers and fans who'll suffer traffic and weather to reach their preferred spot. Having taken a tip from Buffalo's premier Yelper, Fox E., and relying on his encyclopedic knowledge of all things chicken souvlaki, I've become an Alton's man.
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Beginning in the 1950's, Greek immigrants and their children founded many of Western New York's diners, following a model that still includes: long opening hours; a variety of familiar dishes served in surprisingly large portions; and staff who offer familial comfort to those who want it, and leave alone those who want that, instead.
Some disagree, but I think the best time to visit such a place is when it's raining - a slow, disappointing drizzle that makes you as cold as it does wet - or when it's snowing so hard that every person walking in looks to have arrived from far away, and glad to be back home.
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Chicken souvlaki - marinated chicken grilled on a flat top or over flame - seems a simple thing, but there's something stunning about the Western New York version. There's perfection in the marinade, which is itself uncomplicated, yet not everyone gets that, or the dish, just right.
Alton's does.
Alton's has mastered the combination of oil, oregano, garlic, lemon and pepper, grill temp and timing, to deliver consistently juicy chicken that's tenderized by the marinade, lightly caramelized on its edges, and accompanied by sides and dressings that delightfully compliment its flavors.
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I live in San Diego. After eating Alton's chicken souvlaki several times and then returning home, I tried a half-dozen Greek restaurants in my city, looking for something similar. No dice. The dish has some mystical connection to the Buffalo area, like the Lake Effect, and Dyngus Day.
However, I did find a recipe, not from Alton's kitchen, but from Towne Restaurant's, included in an article written by Ann Blask. After substituting olive oil and freshly-ground white pepper, I was happy enough with the result to last me until I return to Cheektowaga.
Souvlaki Marinade
1 gallon vegetable oil
1/2 cup granulated garlic
1/2 cup salt
1 cup Greek Oregano (not ordinary oregano)
1/4 cup black pepper
2 cups lemon juice (bottled is fine)
1/2 cup vinegar
Mix together. Pour over cubed meat and refrigerate for 2-3 days. The longer you soak the meat, the more tender it will be. If the meat is covered in the marinade, it will keep in the refrigerator for a week. Put meat on skewers, alternating with slices of onion and green pepper, and grill.
[n.b. This recipe appears to be generic, and would work well for beef, lamb or pork. It's possible to over-marinade chicken, which will make it mushy. I use a vacuum sealer and limit the marinade to 24 hours.]
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But what about the other thing? the homey, hearty welcome that seems to define Greek diners?
Last summer, my wife and I found ourselves stranded in Buffalo while Delta figured out how to schedule departures and arrivals for airplanes. We spent extra time and an extra visit at Alton's, tying up space as we whiled a day away.
Alton's staff never once made us feel that we were a bother, and, in fact, several of them expressed concern and sympathy for our situation, while feeding us excellent food. Imagine being stranded at your aunt's house as a storm passes by, and you'll have the idea.
I don't live in Buffalo. If I did, you'd find me in Cheektowaga more days than not, indulging my craving for Alton's Chicken Souvlaki, amid the kind and pleasant employees of Alton's Restaurant.
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The Towne: https://www.yelp.com/biz/the-towne-buffalo
Emily's Restaurant: https://www.yelp.com/biz/emilys-restaurant-buffalo
Wehrle Diner: https://www.yelp.com/biz/wehrle-restaurant-buffalo-4
Late Night Dining By Ann Blask: http://www.buffalospree.com/buffalospreemagazine/archives/2001_0506/050601chefsbest.html read more