A fantastic all-around traditional Italian serving fine comfort food, Al Dente's big surprise performances during DC Restaurant Week totally changed our perception of Chef Roberto Donna.
Back in the summer of 2002, my dining companion and I went to Galileo, Chef Donna's then highly-touted upscale Italian flagship. As with Galileo's dining room, the food was cold, and except some nice desserts, clearly treated second-rate (the pasta literally tasted no better than Chef Boyardee). Plus, the service was condescending when actually present. Afterwards, we did not go back to a Donna restaurant for nearly 12 years.
This month, we decided to give the relatively new Al Dente a try because we were tempted by its Tosca-style generous offering of its entire menu for the 2014 DC Restaurant Week--both dinner AND lunch, no less. Having read a large section of Yelp reviews being down on Al Dente for inconsistent food and poor service, we tempered our expectations. Fortunately, we were deliciously rewarded with exemplary Italian cuisine: dishes prepared simply utilizing high quality ingredients. Not only was each dish skillfully executed in balanced composition, flavors, and presentation, each course was its full-sized portion and the service attentive.
What we ordered:
- Arugula Salad with Beets, Shaved Fennel, Orange Supremes, Ricotta Salata, and Vinaigrette: As my DC described, it was beautiful in its appearance, lacy and glistening like a wedding dress. The stunning presentation was matched by layers of bitter, crisp, cool, earthy, salty, and sweet, each component blended by a light, barely-there dressing.
- Prosciutto, Burrata, and Dates: The generous shavings of the premium Parma ham worked well not only in tandem with the silky cheese and sweet dried fruit, but also with the Arugula Salad. The star was definitely the dates caramelized with a panko-topping--what a sweet, textural delight!
- Deep-Fried Zucchini Blossoms Stuffed with Ricotta: A rare exception in portion size (one blossom, a few sticks of zucchini), the summery treat was fried to a light crisp and filled with molten cheese that transported us back to warm weather.
- Grilled Branzino with Garlic Spinach and Salsa Verde: This top dish alone was reason enough for a return visit just a few days later. The fresh and meaty fish was grilled to a tantalizingly smoky exterior. Both filet halves of the fish were served, doubling our pleasure! The spinach carried ample garlicky notes in providing a virtuous accompaniment to the fish. While the salsa verde was not necessary for the fish, its bursting flavors of parsley, EVOO, and basil made for a palate-cleansing dip via fresh breads (mini-pizza crust and whole wheat loaf).
- Roasted Salmon, Crushed Potatoes with Crab, Cherry Tomatoes, and Lemon Vinaigrette: The skin was toasted up to a crunchy char, while the large size of the filet retained plenty of the fish's flavors and natural oils, contrasted by tart tomatoes and dressing. The potatoes (loved having the skin and lack of dairy) were moist and a delicate pairing luxuriously studded with lump crab.
- Grilled Beef Sirloin with Potato Tart, Brussels Sprout Leaves, and Gorgonzola Sauce: Prepared to the medium I requested, the beef had plenty of flavor and smooth, grisle-free texture. While not a huge cut, there was plenty to enjoy considering rich and funky cheese jazzing up layered potatoes. The toasted leaves gave a slight bitter and green change of pace to the luscious potato and cheese.
- Hemisphere Tiramisu: Cuter-than-usual in presentation, the classic Italian sweet was well-executed, studded with crunchy shards of sugar, caramelized hazelnuts, strawberry, mint, and a side of pleasantly tart chocolate sauce infused with Balsamic Vinaigrette.
- Panna Cotta with Preserved Cherries and Whipped Vanilla Bean: Yet another pleasant surprise, Al Dente's rendition rises above the standard thanks to the rich milk custard livened up by a wonderfully floral cherry sauce. Complete on their own, the whipped cream works well as a float for our coffee.
- Dessert Pizza of Nutella, Strawberries, Pears, and Mascarpone: Definitely sized for two, they served this full-sized pie (no upcharge for DCRW) loaded with richness of hazelnutty chocolate, floral cheese, and fruit. After taking half home, I still enjoyed it breakfast without reheating it.
- Chocolate Gelato: What Al Dente lacked in variety (only others were vanilla and no sorbet available when we ordered) it made up with a deeply-flavored ice cream which had a texture somewhere between a mousse and pudding.
All in all, Al Dente has become a go-to for DCRW by utilizing the promotion with a generous attitude to showcase the depth of its menu as well as earning a spot in our short list of favorite Italian restaurants. After Ovvio's founding Chef Chris Watson left, we lost an affordable fine Italian spot, but thanks to Al Dente, it looks like we have that considerable void filled. read more