I am writing this review to compare the top two restaurants in Concord, 80 Thoreau and Woods Hill Table. Both are excellent and well worth a visit. However, each offers its own interpretation of the farm-to-table experience and its own atmosphere. I also think that the presence of each restaurant has been good for the other. Both have "upped their game" over the last year or two, perhaps because diners in Concord now have a choice about where to hop out for a quick, high end meal. Indeed, I'd note that Bondir in Concord recently closed, and I'm guessing that diners generally preferred 80 Thoreau and Woods Hill Table to Bondir. I certainly did.
I will start by describing the surroundings and atmosphere of each restaurant. 80 Thoreau occupies second floor space in the Concord train depot. It's literally tucked away upstairs, and this makes the restaurant small and cozy. Guests walking into the main dining area can see into the open kitchen. There is a bar area, but it's not a centerpiece of the restaurant by any means. The vibe of the restaurant is very mildly contemporary, but overall fairly calm and consistent with what you'd expect for an old New England town.
Woods Hill Table occupies a renovated local grocery store near the West Concord train station. The former West Concord Supermarket was totally gutted, and I must say that the owners of the restaurant did a great job at converting that store into a large open space with a slightly trendier feel than 80 Thoreau. For example, the bar in Woods Hill Table is much larger. Bar patrons can enjoy the full dinner menu there, and it's crowded enough so you feel like there's a small scene of people stopping in after work to enjoy a drink and quick meal. I'd also say that Woods Hill Table is a bit noisier and less formal than 80 Thoreau. The restaurant also offers outdoor seating in warm weather.
As for the cuisine, both are excellent, but there are differences to be noticed. I'd say that 80 Thoreau cuisine feels higher and finer, and a bit more traditional. The menus is small, but every item is very well done. On a recent visit, I enjoyed their soft-shell crab appetizer, which was given just enough breading to go with being cooked exactly the right amount. No undercooked crab inside, yet no overdone crab which has lost its flavor. Similarly, the skin on the pan-seared hake was perfectly crisp.
By contrast, Woods Hill Table's cuisine may not be quite as high end and fine, but it is more unusual and interesting. Many times I've left that restaurant thinking, "I've never eaten anything prepared quite like that." For example, an entree of fried chicken did not come as a piece of chicken accompanied by a biscuit. Instead, it was presented as a sandwich with sauce. And it was darn good! Similarly, Woods HIll Table consistently deconstructs its desserts. If you order chocolate chip fudge cake, it may come in pieces - a dense layer of fudge cake accompanied by chocolate chips sprinkled around the plate and several dollops of frosting. At Woods Hill Table, the presentation of the food is often a subject of conversation. Of course, the restaurant does have its conventional items too. The grilled broccoli is outstanding, as is the spaghetti bolognese (which is accented with a small dose of chili flakes).
Although I'm sure that the locals have their opinions on which of these is the "better" restaurant, I'd rather say that both are excellent and different. I eat at both regularly, and Concord is way better off having them both. Together, they significantly elevate what might otherwise be a rather dull set of dining options. read more