Alright. So when it comes to dessert, I generally program myself to respond to 2 categories - either I like them with a thick, rich mouth-feel (like a really good pasteis de nata, a flan or some creme brulee, maybe a crispy kougn amman served with some good black coffee), or I prefer something light and airy, like a mille feuille, a decent glass of melon sorbet (a shot of midori would be nice), or even an excellent angel food cake with some fruit on the side. Sometimes a craving for the latter brings me to Yeh's.
Yeh's Bakery is in a part of Flushing called Queensborough Hill. The Q44 bus run near the area, and neighborhood businesses are frequented by car owning suburbanites who would rather grab lunch in the area and not get into fistfights dealing with Downtown Flushing traffic. It's like a mini-Taipei/Hong Kong - ever since the Mainlanders became dominant on Main & Kissena, the Cantonese/Taiwanese moved out to the boonies to escape the FOB insanity. The food choices in the immediate area reflects this - there are 2 Hong Kong style Shanghaiese joints in the area, 2 Hong Kong style diners, a very good Taiwanese joint (Main Street Imperial Taiwanese Gourmet), and 2 Dim-sum palaces around that area (Lake Pavilion recently re-opened after an electrical fire). It's natural to expect Yeh's to be here, Taiwanese bakery and all.
So what's the big deal - they are all Chinese, right? No - there are distinctive styles in Chinese bakeries based upon the owners' origin. They are likely to steal ideas from each other and/or execute each other's offerings (often with surprising or disappointing results), but you can tell them apart. There's the ones with Malaysian roots like Little House Cafe in Corona - you'll get Curry Puffs, Kaya (coconut custard) toasts, Coconut & Pandan cakes, and etc. You have the Hong Kong style with the Pearl Delta Portuguese/British colonial influences, such as Taipan Bakery or Morning Glory in Rego Park. They'll do Brit-style milk breads, egg tarts (a local derivative of the Portuguese Pasteis de Nata), cocktail buns (milk custard filled buns sold during breakfast time in HK diners), or pineapple (bolo) buns - No pineapples but they have a crispy yellow streusel top that looks somewhat (not quite) like the outside of a pineapple. You might run into Bakeries with Northern Chinese roots, which features large steamed buns, and traditional mochi-like pastries.
Then you have the Taiwanese like Yi Mei Fong (recently shut down due to the fire on Main/Roosevelt - that places goes back to the late 70s), and this fine establishment. So, what makes it Taiwanese? Well, Taiwan was a former Japanese colonial subject, and prior to that, it was considered backwaters for adventurers from the nearby Jiangsu and Fujian provinces of China, and all this left indelible marks on their food-ways. From the local sugar industry came brown sugar for the Sun cakes (太陽餅). From the fruit plantations came the guavas (芭樂) for juices and pineapples for pineapple short cakes 鳳梨酥 (although nowadays, unless you buy it from a gourmet bakery like Sunnyhills (微熱山丘), the standard stuff is wax gourd and pineapple flavoring with a disappointing shortening crust). From the Japanese, a love for green tea (which the Taiwanese grow in their plantations) and mochi (麻糬). Then there's the mooncakes stuffed with candied winter melon and nuts (台灣月餅), or herbal jelly (仙草) that goes into drinks.
You see signs of that all over Yeh's (Yeh being the Taiwanese Wade-Giles transliteration for the Chinese surname 葉 (or Ye in Pinyin) - the drinks fridge will have HeySong Sarsaparilla (黑松沙士), Apple Sidra, herbal Jelly in cane juice, or guava juice. What about the pastries? You'll definitely see their version of mochi, moon cakes, the sun cakes, the wife cakes, and their own pineapple shortcake (it's a tad disappointing). They also have turnovers with curried beef and chicken, but their claim to fame was their light-and-fluffy Boston cream pies. So what's a common complaint that the Chinese have against American style cakes and desserts? It's too sweet, too heavy, and too dense. While I have a sweet tooth and don't mind a good pineapple upside down cake from Lord's Bakery in Flatbush - I do like something that reminds me of a good angel's food cake, a light Chiffon that is seasoned with a sweeter, whipped cream frosting. Something that doesn't weigh me down and can go well with some chilled fruit - which is what their Boston Cream pie really is - a chiffon disk with plenty of light and airy whipped cream in the middle, and dusted with confectioner's sugar on top, available both as a slice, or as an entire pie. Light, refreshing and delicate. So delicate, in fact, that the owner will warn you in Mandarin to keep it in the fridge until you are ready to serve.
As if it'll get a chance to do that. Half of a typical slice will be gone before I walk out the door. read more