Mammoth Lakes - the Boulevard of Broken Dreams. The Vail of the West that never was. The victim of time-share and condo-mania built too quickly and too late. Pushed upmarket but not far enough to attract the true big spenders. An empty lot where the skeleton of a sign that once eagerly proclaimed itself to be the future location of a Ritz Carlton Residence Club is succumbing to wood rot. A half-finished "downtown village" of "high-rise" hotel buildings that are nail-for-nail clones of "moderate" condo-tels from Whistler-Blackcomb, and rising above it all, like a chateau among the pines, the Westin Monache - the only truly hotel-like property in town in service and aesthetic. It's montane-moderne motif is omnipresent, and nowhere is it more apparent than in Whitebark.
Whitebark, listed as one of the "Village Restaurants" is not part of the village proper - to reach it one must cross Canyon Boulevard at the tram stop, beneath the Village Gondola, and climb the mountain of steps leading to the Westin's lobby. Once inside, the faux-crafstman aesthetic of the Village gives way to something quite different, and the restaurant itself - with its polished steel accents, 'floating' river stone ceiling, and glossy granite walls, broken with floating fireplaces - seems curiously appropriate for Mammoth, yet entirely different from what you'd expect. The local inspiration is clear, but the manner in which it is used is decidedly unique. It only works here, in this one place. It is sophisticated in a way Mammoth Mountain ski area's attempts at copying trendy LA aesthetics cannot be precisely because it is meant to BE Mammoth revisited - not a copy of something else. It is without a doubt the most striking dining room interior in the Eastern Sierra. And I say this as an unabashed critic of modern architecture.
The menu is also in keeping with its setting - local yet unconventional. Duck, venison, steak and chops, all spun with fusions of asian and Mediterranean flavors. The Caesar Salad, at $9, is of the delightful wedge variety - two large very crisp and cold romaine wedges with fresh parmesean, crostini, and a dressing with the spicy, aromatic, seafood-like aroma that only comes from a truly fresh anchovy-rich dressing. The wild Lassen Rainbow Trout ($28), on a bed of pearl pasta and vegetables, with its lemon-dill reduction, was a refreshing meshing of textures - a nutty pasta, a slight pickled sensation from the reduction, and a mild carrot flavor. Perfection. Duck confit pasta, elk chops - each dish was an exceedingly generous portion, with an unexpected yet fitting twist. The Asian influences are light and accentory in nature, and the presentation as masterful as any fine restaurant in the Southland, yet still different - decidedly different, decidedly Mammoth.
The service is attentive, yet on busy nights gets swamped and the meal becomes quite leisurely. However, each staff member is trained to anticipate needs before they arise and to treat every guest like a regular whether you are staying at the Westin or not. This is something other Mammoth restaurants desperately need to learn.
The bar area possesses its own menu of sophisticated pub fare (the gourmet sliders, with different meats and sauces, are an ever changing delight) and recently a full sushi bar was added, and my friends claim it's the best sushi in Mammoth (which isn't hard... given Sushi Rei is pretty lackluster). Will definitely have to return. The wine list is extensive, and the drinks quite stiff and masterful. This is the only bar in Mammoth that makes a proper Old Fashioned.
Perhaps Mammoth will someday reach its full potential and abandon its LA-in-the-mountains aesthetic and attitude and achieve true sophistication. But until that day comes Whitebark offers a privileged glimpse of that possibility. It is amazing. The best splurge on the Eastside. read more