My Beloved and I frequently celebrate special events - birthdays, Valentine's Day, anniversaries,…read morework-related and other accomplishments, etc. - at Barona Casino's steakhouse, Barona Oaks. The casino comps our dinner, and our experience suggests that we'll enjoy a lovely meal.
The restaurant is intended for grownups, and is thus willing to take, and honor, reservations. As a part of its COVID-19 protocol, Barona Oaks limited service to the casino's Diamond and Platinum members, which continues to make it easy for us to book a table. Sadly, membership at those levels doesn't imply class or style, and we occasionally finds ourselves seated near a table full of loud-talking bros, shrieking woo-hoo girls, or a combination of those things.
We generally reserve for as early as 5:30. Make your Boomer jokes, but there's nothing wrong with avoiding competition for a good table; being fed and served by staff who aren't worn out by a hectic evening's work; and getting the pick of the day's best ingredients. Plus, eating early at a casino allows plenty of time for gambling afterwards, and as a bonus, the noisy jerks I mentioned typically eat later in the evening.
The elegant room is always lit low, its corner fireplace stoked and homey, and the furniture is typical of such places: oversized, solid and comfortable. It's not unusual to see a couple secretly snogging in one of the high-backed booths that ring the room, while the pianist plays American standards with professional restraint, understanding, as he does, that he is not the show.
The show, of course, is the menu, which was pared down during COVID times to an essential steakhouse list: a dozen classic appetizers, soups and salads; USDA Prime steaks; fish, shrimp and lobster; and decadent sides. This familiar bill of fare is what I imagine wealthy, middle-aged, golf course-dwelling guys consider "comfort food."
The restaurant's chef, Mike Davis, runs both Barona Oaks and the casino's Italian Cucina. Chef Mike has a lot on his shoulders, and he handles his business well. The man is remarkable for at least three reasons: he's a good cook, innovative, yet respectful of tradition; he's receptive to customer suggestions; and he's a cheerful, humble dude, intent on making his guests happy with their meals, instead of being preoccupied with doing a pretty song-and-dance at tableside. Downtown chefs could take a lesson.
So, what's for dinner? At times, the menu, simple though it may be, poses me a dilemma: I know I'm having steak, but what should I have first?
Chilled shrimp cocktail is an old-fashioned yet solid choice; the kitchen offers gorgeous 16/20's, perfectly cooked in a tasty braise. But I'm often tempted by glazed pork belly or a lobster "Martini," or, when I plan to eat a large steak, the crisp, clean flavor of an iceberg wedge topped with bleu cheese. Of course, I can't have all of those things. I hesitate, and my head spins as I'm compelled to choose. Waiters hate me.
For my main course, I've ordered Barona Oaks' two pound Maine lobster a few of times, and nothing wrong with that, but, as my East Coast friends will attest, lobster is best eaten in sight of the boat that captured it. As I say, I generally have a steak.
Over the years, my preference has shifted from Porterhouse and ribeye to NY strips, because, while those others deliver excellent flavor, I've become more sensitive to their fattiness, and I've never liked that I needed them cooked to medium to melt out the fat. So strip steak it is. Skeptical? When the kitchen has it, try a 12 oz. Snake River Farms Wagyu Gold New York Steak, cooked medium-rare. You'll see.
I mostly skip dessert. By the time my waiter offers, I'm generally semi-conscious, and if I say "yes," I'm really just ordering out of habit, not hunger. That said, I've always been happy with the place's baked goods.
I'll grant that Barona Oaks is a bit of a hike, but I promise that the meal is worth the trouble. In fact, if you take traffic and parking issues into account, it's a hell of a lot better than a drive to La Jolla or a trip downtown.
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If you're unconvinced, consider that Barona Oaks is a favorite of my pal Brad B., San Diego's Yelp Community Manager, who definitely knows food and service:
https://www.yelp.com/biz/barona-oaks-steakhouse-lakeside-3?hrid=MzBeOSZK4KApZgpjIVBl8w
Barona Casino: https://www.barona.com/