Is there too much stock put into cooking a burger to the requested doneness? Maybe, maybe not. It's an area that is a hot button issue for burger enthusiasts, because if you are going to be cooking copious amounts of burgers at your restaurant, you should probably be nailing the temps on a consistent basis. If you order a steak and it is not cooked the want you wanted it, it's getting sent back, one would presume, but burgers sometimes get a free pass. Maybe it's a price issue with burgers being on the more affordable spectrum (usually), so it's less of an issue. Where am I going with this? I lean somewhere on the side that it has to be more about the general flavor and enjoyment of the overall burger. Do I want my burger cooked a perfect medium-rare? No doubt about it, and the better spots will hit that temp each and every time, and I'd be foolish into trying to convince you that it's not a factor in my overall grading scale, because it absolutely is. However, if the burger is juicy, seasoned and has the proper meat to bun ratio, I'll take that over a perfectly executed patty with no seasoning or substance. Long story short, and I'm sure you can guess where I'm going with this, Brass Union in Somerville makes a very tasty burger, but on this inaugural visit, medium-rare it was not.
The cheeseburger, with grass-fed beef, Cabot cheddar, onion marmalade and green aioli is hefty and has value at $13. This is a small plates menu, however, and it always makes me chuckle when I see a burger on such a menu because I want it all to myself. Even my favorite, Alden and Harlow, has a small plates focus, which to me doesn't scream burger but who am I to say. The Brass Union burger is served on the played-out black pepper brioche from Iggy's, but the thick and meaty patty is wedged in nicely, and the freshness of the bun does in fact fit the bill. A well balanced char brings out just enough background smokey notes, but the patty is very close to a medium-well with one or two pockets of rare for good measure. But the seasoning is dead-on; it's juicy, succulent and meaty, and the thin bottom half of the bun just barely holds together with consistent juices all the way through. Melted cheese plays along too; it's enough to complement but still puts the meat at the head of the class. Onion marmalade is merely caramelized onions and they are delicious if a little heavy handed. A green aioli is actually very white with few speckles of herbage, and tastes a little sweet for my tastebuds, especially in conjunction with the marmalade. Skin-on fries are piping hot, creamy in the center and all you need from a fry, minus a minor dusting of salt.
This is essentially a very good pub burger in disguise but aside from the cookery of the meat, it is more than serviceable and flavorful. Don't expect this to be the best burger you've ever had, but for a relatively affordable and relaxed environment in the Cambridge/Somerville area, it is definitely a burger I can get behind. read more