I visited Triangle Spirits for a Friday lunch after hearing about how great their fried chicken is. It wasn't very busy at all - it's probably more of a place for the evening and late night crowd given their well stocked inventory of alcohol and spirits. I believe food is made to order, so it took a good 20 minutes before my order arrived.
Fried Chicken Sandwich, Nashville Style ($19) - This sandwich is pretty simple in terms of ingredients - a buttery and toasted, fluffy bun, a couple of pieces of iceberg lettuce, the requisite pieces of fried chicken, creamy mayo, and some sweet and tangy pickle rounds on the bottom, to cut through the chicken fat and fryer oil. The pickles, while necessary for the sandwich, are far sweeter than I prefer, and given in a larger quantity than most fried chicken sandwiches. The lettuce isn't applied very well; even coming to the table, large pieces had already flung out of the sandwich.
The star of the show is obviously the fried chicken. A lot of people think Nashville-style just means dumping a bunch of cayenne chili powder onto a regular piece of fried chicken and calling it a day. This technique adds spice, sure, but doesn't enhance the chicken with waves of layered flavor. Triangle Spirits does it mostly right, albeit with some outside-Nashville adjustments. The chicken is clearly brined well, giving a great flavor base, then dredged in a lightly crispy breading that properly adheres. The breading isn't red in color, but has a complex spice with mild heat and a touch of sweetness. It's not too spicy at all; it would probably be characterized as a step below mild at a traditional Nashville hot chicken establishment. The chicken is pounded thin and is still relatively moist.
While Triangle Spirits doesn't add cayenne to the brine, nor pour hot cayenne oil over the chicken, the overall flavor profile is excellent given the care put into the seasoning. The flavors are balanced.
The sandwich comes with fries, which are normal commercial thin fries. They are fried until crisp with the interior starting to dry out, but still remaining mostly fluffy. They toss with a lot of salt so it's on the saltier side. (4/5)
I actually revisited a couple of weeks later to try out their bone-in chicken, which is by far my preferred way of eating Nashville-style hot chicken.
Dark Meat, 3PC, Nashville Hot ($21) - This is more like 2.5 pieces of chicken, with a thigh, drum, and wing flat. The chicken is remarkably similar in taste and fry level as the sandwich, juicy inside, lightly crisp on the outside. Again, with a very mild heat, balanced with the excellently brined chicken, some smokiness from the chilis, and a bit of sugar sweetness. Just a great layered flavor profile. This time, they actually do douse the chicken a little in cayenne oil - but again, it's a very mild one. Unfortunately there's no piece of white bread underneath to soak up all the oil. I wonder if they fry in peanut oil because I taste some nuttiness in the breading as well.
This comes with one side, of which I went with the collard greens. They are cooked well, with some vinegar to cut through all the bitterness, but still leaving some texture. They come in a cup that's filled to the top with essentially a ham (maybe bacon?), onion, and garlic broth. There's not much acidity at all, and it's pretty nice to drink just as a soup. I'm not sure this is a great side to go with the fried chicken though - when it came to the table, since the cup was so full of soup, some spilled out and soaked into the chicken. (5/5)
Service is generally on the slower and lackadaisical side. Even for lunch, when there was barely any traffic, on both visits it took me almost an hour and half from entering the establishment to leaving. It's definitely not a place for a quick lunch. Most people eating here probably get a beer or liquor, but I drink water only. The water cup they give is tiny, and with the inattentive service, it doesn't get refilled often. I wish they left a small jug of water at each table.
At any rate, the fried chicken Triangle Spirits serves is actually very good. I wonder why it doesn't appear on any best of Seattle fried chicken lists - because it's definitely better than some of the entries on the typical list I see.
Bathrooms - Two larger ones, one for men, one for women.
Food: [4.5/5]
Service: [-]
Other: [ ]
Final Rating: 4/5