Being that Trace is just a hop, skip, and jump from my workplace... it was only a matter of time until I had an opportunity to pop in and nibble on the nosh at the latest iteration of the former XYZ space within the W Hotel. And upon dipping my fork into many 'a bites from Executive Chef Paul Piscopo's farm-to-table eats, I gotta say... I'm pretty fond of what they're doing.
This is no knock on the former tenant, but for me, the W used to stand for cutting edge style, fashion, and culture. Whether you were at one of their properties in San Diego, Chicago, or San Francisco, you knew that if you were eating, sleeping, or flirting at one of their outposts, it was one of the hottest hangs in town. But for some reason (complacency, perhaps?), the W seemed to fall behind the rest of the pack when it came to forward thinking concepts... but that's all changed with the turnover project of Trace.
To run with the theme of the W's former cutting edge spirit, they're back to their old ways with one of the first locally-sourced, farm-to-table operations in any hotel I can recall. When was the last time you visited a hotel and encountered meats from grass-fed animals that were procured from within 90 miles of the front door? Greens hailing from a farm just a quick 45 minute drive away? Dishes featuring Bellwether Farms Carmody cheese, so close, you can almost hit it with a rock? Often times when you're eating at a hotel, you're stuck ingesting horrible factory-farmed products and Cisco processed franken-food. Bravo to the brass at W for jumping aboard the trendy, yet much-needed and appreciated slow food movement that many other visionaries around San Francisco have been practicing as of late.
Doting aside... how does all this backyard fare play out? Well, let me recall some of the flavorful items that found their way ol' Ruggeford H. Joesten's eagerly-awaiting palate.
+ The spiced eggplant with grilled scallion, coriander and crispy rice: a fantastic little starter with all the smokiness you'd expect from a pureed nightshade like this.
+ Brentwood corn soup with spiced popcorn, cotija cheese, and cilantro cream: it's the tail end of corn season, but this little bugger still packed quite the punch. Served cold, it's a must try if you're fortunate enough to catch it before it goes away until 2012.
+ The heirloom tomato "PBLT" with grilled pork belly, romaine, aioli, whole wheat, and of course, bacon: Well, it had both pork belly AND bacon. It shouldn't take too much convincing to let you know it was divine, porky gluttony.
+ The grilled flatbread with figs, caramelized onions, pork belly, arugula: again, our pal pork belly makes another appearance, and this dish is perfect for sharing as a starter. Not too heavy despite the fatty hunks of swine scattered throughout, and the figs help to offset the salty nature of the rest of the ingredients.
Yes... there's even more food!
+ Prosciutto and Fig grilled cheese sandwich featuring Valley Ford cheddar cheese, whole grain mustard, and crispy sourdough: with the gourmet grilled cheese crazy seeing no end in sight, the stand right in there with some of the bigger names you'd come to expect from the high-end comfort food game.
+ And finally, for dessert... quite possibly one of my favorite sweet indulgences I've had in some kind. I can't recall the name of this one, but it featured a peanut butter waffle (yes, a peanut butter waffle!) with housemade Concord grape jelly, chocolate chips, and a dollop of crème fraiche on top. Holy cow -- it was like eating the greatest peanut butter and jelly sandwich of my life! Seriously, this might be one of the greatest dessert items in all of San Francisco.
So, as you can see... I'm fairly pleased with my first romp with Trace. I see some of these neg reviews from folks who waited a couple extra minutes during one of the busiest times of year in SOMA (Oracle World), and it's a shame, as it's a tad unfair to judge a place at the height of the pandemonium that Larry Ellison brings to downtown. Hopefully they'll have an opportunity to swing by on a less intense evening. read more