Epic, epicurean, sybaritic Cantonese/Hong Kong Banquet marking over 40 years of Joss was presided…read moreover by the ever congenial, worldly, sophisticated owner, Cecile Tang. This event will be remembered in our mind, heart, and especially by our stomach.
I was very fortunate in receiving notice of the last seating at Joss in the form of private, reserved banquets in September 2026. Joss had previously closed to the public at the end of August. 8 courses were most ample, and generosity was evident in the use of luxurious ingredients and elaborate culinary techniques.
1) Wu Gok: Fried Taro dumpling (Chinese: 芋角) covered in an airy, lacy, crispy batter. The mashed starchy, naturally sweet Taro root hides a soft oyster.
Lightly smashed, crunchy, salted cucumber, dark cloud ear mushrooms are dressed in subtle, sweetened rice vinegar dressing similar to Japanese Su no Mono salad. Accompanied by whole red Thai chile and a slice of garlic clove.
2) Roast Squab: Small pigeon like bird slow baked to golden brown to retain succulence with pleasant scent of 5 spice where star anise added licorice aromatics. Possibly crushed red table pepper & touch of powdered Sichuan pepper in the salt blend provided along with a wedge of lemon for adding gastrique.
Small nubs of dark, brown, squab meat were lightly sautéed with finely chopped bright green asparagus in butter lettuce leaf cups. Crunchy, thick rice chips for textural contrast.
3) Winter Melon 8 Precious Broth: Served in its own whole melon tureen after being cleared of its "meat". Shrimp, pillowy bay scallops, chunks of soft, juicy Winter Melon, diced earthy Shītakè mushroom, ham were some of the ingredients in soy sauce darkened chicken broth.
4) Maine Lobster Aberdeen over Braised Noodle with Lobster Jus Naturel: Whole scarlet lobster shell is placed over al dente thin pasta looking like squiggly Linguine.
And barely steamed chunks of lobster that may have been coated in egg white & corn starch, then flash sautéed to seal in moistness for a plush velvety surface and fibrous, meaty, sweet interior.
All the above are tossed in a concentrated lobster shell based broth along with medicinal ginger, chiffonade of scallions, toasty, aromatic sesame oil.
Some will say this is a highly sophisticated, "royal" version of Lobster Cantonese.
5) Crisped California Red Snapper with Lychi Sweet & Sour Sauce: Whole fish lightly battered with possibly corn starch-wheat flour for extra crispness of the skin. The frying of the fish in light, clean oil gives the fish meat an ethereal, airy texture.
Then a fruity, lychee, oyster sauce based, vinegar acidic sauce is applied garnished with sautéed green, yellow, red bellpeppers.
6) Joss Peking Duck: May be the signature Chinese duck dish in all of California if not the U.S. The special involved method leaves the skin, especially the legs, with a lacquered, shiny, lustrous glow.
The crispy skin exudes a sweet, lush fattiness that is tamed by the extra earthy, sweet, heavy, viscosity of the fermented soy bean Hoisin/"plum sauce". The duck meat is lean, toned, moist for different effect.
All the above can be placed in a taut, stretchy, ultra thin, leathery wheat crêpe slathered with Hoisin dressed with julienned watery cucumber and chiffonade of scallions.
1-6a) Chrysanthemum Tea paired well with the Chinese Banquet cuisine. The earthy, spicy, floral tones were ideal.
Dessert:
7) Steamed Chocolate Pudding Cake is chocolatey, ultra plush, touch sweet, moist in a pool of dark chocolate sauce.
8) Fresh Coconut Frappé: Young, tender coconut meat, coconut water, possibly condensed milk seems blended and chilled to make a refreshing, frothy, aerosol-like whip cream texture. Garnished with mint leaves.
What an incredible repast "by Executive chef Golo Kwokson Yu who joined the kitchen in 1988, training under master chef Lao Ying Chieh before taking over as Chef de Cuisine in 1993." Bravo to his culinary prowess!
So privileged to have the last supper. Wishing Ms. Tang, Chef de Cuisine Yu, and the friendly, cordial staff the best, happy, good fortune. 5+++ stars!!!
