My friend had high praise for Spencer, so I was excited to try it out when I was in Ann Arbor. My…read morefriends and I arrived 10 min before they opened for brunch and there was no wait, though the restaurant filled up quickly behind us. The space is rustic and simple, with fresh cut flowers on the tables. A majority of the walls were occupied by floor to ceiling racks of wine, as that is their award-winning product. Their brunch menu changes weekly and is extremely tight and cohesive. My party ordered the entire food menu sans olives (2/3rds of us don't like them), and two plates of the potato pelmeni. My thoughts below:
Amaro Apertivo: mocktail based on the namesake dessert wine. This tasted like candy but not too sweet, and we enjoyed it a lot.
Lovage soda: Google told me that lovage is an herb that tastes like citrus and celery. I am a huge fan of drinks with a twist, and I'd say that celery is a pretty big one! Crisp and not too sweet, the citrus flavor definitely balanced the Celery, and both flavors kept the soda fresh and crisp. This was great paired with the rest of the herbaceous menu and balanced out the richness of some later dishes, though it's not necessarily something I would enjoy by itself without appropriate accompaniment.
Pickled egg, fried shallot, dill: I had only heard of pickled eggs in the context of strange British food on YouTube, so I was a little hesitant about this dish. The concept of an egg floating in vinegar brine is a bit off-putting, but once I powered through that mental roadblock, I found myself enjoying this bite. The egg is perfectly cooked with a slightly jammy yolk, and the shallots added a much needed crunch. Dill enhanced the pickled taste while cutting through the richness of the fried shallots and yolk.
Sourdough focaccia, whipped butter: Never in my life have I ever made focaccia this tall. This focaccia was raised by a loving family and nurtured to develop a golden, non-greasy, crisp crust protecting its tender, pillowy innards. The classic sourdough tang is a novel addition to each bite, and cuts through the creamy, whipped butter to keep me wanting more. I could eat a whole pan of this alone, but we had many more plates to sample.
Saucisson sec salami, pickled carrot: This is a simple, charming, carb-free mini charcuterie; place a slice of salami, some of the mozzarella (next dish on this list, below), and its oil atop a pickled carrot base, and you are in for a perfectly balanced treat. My favorite part of this dish is the fact that the salami was incredibly savory, and not too salty. The more you chew it, the more the flavors express themselves, so be sure to chew slowly and thoroughly! The crunch of the crisp, dill-pickled carrot and the soft chewiness of the mozzarella give each bite a lot of good contrast.
Mozzarella, green garlic oil: Fresh, hand-stretched mozzarella is something that even I, a notorious cheese-hater, can't say no to. It is not sharp or funky at all, nor is it too salty. Most of the flavor comes from the green garlic and olive oil smothering each bite. Fresh and floral with a little bite, this was delicious with the salami and carrot above.
Potato pelmeni, asparagus green adjika, sour cream: Given the portion size of the previous dishes (small, tapas vibes), we were not expecting the platter full of double carb heaven that met our eyes. And we ordered two!!! This is a gorgeous dish with plump, quarter-sized pelmeni nestled in a vibrant green asparagus and herb sauce with a dollop of sour cream on top. This was a classic comfort dish with a verdant twist! The pelmeni were stuffed full of creamy potato, and the dough was cooked perfectly al dente for a satisfying, pillowy bite. The sauce was homey but packed with zippy flavor and tender asparagus. The major feedback I have for this dish is that it was way too salty, to the point where the flavor was a tad too sharp because of it.
Lettuces, radish, pumpkin seed, caraway vinaigrette: It was through this dish that I found out what caraway tastes like and through this dish that I figured out that I'm not a caraway fan. The lettuces were bitter and when combined with the slightly medicinal caraway taste, wasn't for me. The crunch of the radish and the nutty pumpkin seeds were great in this dish though!
Fennel cornmeal biscotti, rhubarb compote, cream: This was a single biscotti with generous dollops of compote and cream. We were quite full when this dish was set in front of us, so I was frankly relieved for the small portion size. The fennel in the biscotti paired wonderfully with the tart rhubarb, and the rich cream rounded things out nicely without tipping into cloying territory. The savory cornmeal complimented the fennel and provided additional depth of flavor. A great small bite to end on!
Overall, Spencer's strong fundamentals allow them to take risks with in-season local produce. Some things worked for me and some didn't, but I would love to come back to see what they can create next!