Dining here is a beautiful, civilized, old-world experience. The warm, observant hospitality rivals top tier, Michelin starred restaurants; the space is charming. Chef Seitz greets all tables briefly during dinner service and the lovely Ms. Seitz greets all from behind the bar as guests come in through the front door.
There are pleasant, old-school touches: Complimentary bread is brought to the table before dinner along with generous ramekins of butter and pate. The bread is American-style "French," low gluten and fluffy, with a slight crust. Our non-European littles (who enjoy a good miche and Wonderbread equally) devoured it happily.
Our starters were the strongest point. Arch Gravlax / Cucumber Salad / Wasabi Mousse / Potato Scallion Crisp ($18) was well cured and paired nicely with "potato scallion crisp" (aka a nicely fried latke!) and cucumber salad. Although the pale green quenelle of mild wasabi mousse was lovely to see on the plate, flavor-wise, I found it somewhat superfluous, the wasabi too dilute to stand up to the more assertive salmon.
An utterly non-seasonal Cold Cucumber Soup /Chopped Chives ($14) was well received by the young lady who insisted on ordering it. The taste of cucumber was relatively faint, flavors dominated by sour cream.
Crisp Artichoke Hearts / Wilted Spinach / Lemon and Capers ($19) were a crowd favorite, lightly battered, quartered artichoke hearts dressed with a very pleasant lemon-caper sauce, and served over wilted spinach that our children really went for, to my surprise. The Arch serves a tender and delicious version of fried artichokes, unlike the more fibrous, charry versions one is likely to encounter in Italian restaurants.
Main courses were served after just the right length of time.
The Crisp Honey Orange Roasted Duckling / Bing Cherries ($38) was classically prepared. Duck meat was moist, the fat nicely rendered off, and we loved the accompaniment of cherries, green beans, whipped sweet potato and spaetzel. Note that all of our mains came commendably well balanced with vegetables, proteins and carbohydrates... big, big win! But a few nitpicks: Most of the flavor remained on the skin and did not permeate through to the meat. (I use a dry rub underneath the skin so the meat is flavored as well as the skin.) I also have to channel my German BIL, who complains about our "American ducks" tasting like... yep, chicken. They tend to lack the gaminess of their German counterparts and whether that's a pro or a con is a matter of preference.
Pan Sautéed Filet of Sole / Brown Butter / Toasted Almonds ($32) came with a generous portion of breaded fillets, two fish cakes, and Brussels sprouts and more of that whipped sweet potato, served in a charming squiggle. The fish was attractively plated, but a touch oversalted, the gentle, mild flavor of sole somewhat overwhelmed by the flour dredge (somewhat thicker than I'm used to for sole meuniere). It's clear that this kitchen knows how to handle seafood, though, so next time, I'll swing for whatever non-breaded seafood special they have on offer.
Tenderized, breaded pork in the Wiener Schnitzel / Lemon & Capers ($33) was fried to perfection, well blotted to avoid greasiness, and deliciously plated with the same lemon-caper sauce that came with our artichokes. Also on the plate: spaetzlel; a tiny sprig of rosemary; a very old-school anchovy, to my great delight; Brussels sprouts; summer squash; and microgreens. Beautiful and balanced.
A Beef Bourguignon / House Made Gruyere Spätzle ($30) managed, like so many other dishes on the menu, to be both delicate and fortifying at the same time. It was again classically prepared, the chewy, homestyle spaetzle a good accompaniment.
We'd been forewarned by friends to save room for dessert. Our chocolate and raspberry souffles were suitably impressive: gigantic puffs served with additional creme. Note that if you choose souffle, it would be wise to order these at the start of the meal, as they are made to order.
If you dine out frequently in NYC, you may not be impressed by food at the Arch (though service would be impressive anywhere). It is by-the-book traditional rather than innovative, there are minor flaws in prep. But if one considers what the Arch does with probably 1/5 of the staff of a top tier NYC restaurant; the balanced, beautiful plating; the welcoming environs; the well-priced and well curated wine list; the sense of special occasion that the staff bring to the meal -- we have personally not encountered better in the area.
Planning for a return visit, especially in warmer weather when the beautiful outdoor dining area reopens. read more