Overwhelmingly underwhelming. 2.5 stars, potential to reach 3, but not a lot more.
Ris is billed as a high-end restaurant, and certainly bills like a high end restaurant, but fails to reach expectations on all fronts. Given its two block proximity to at least two other restaurants that do succeed in this niche (Blue Duck Tavern and Westend Bistro), I expect that the crowds that currently swamp Ris will eventually dissipate.
The first impression we got of Ris was the din. It was packed at 8pm on a Tuesday night. In a truly high-end place, noise control would have been planned for in the design of the space. Not so here. Ris has very low ceilings, no sound dampening panels on the ceilings or anywhere else, it is narrow at the bar and very, very wide in the seating area. My guess is that the sound funnels back towards the seating area. It is very, very, VERY loud in there. In addition, the decor is really uninspired and, again, the main seating area is very wide and undivided, lacking any sort of intimacy.
The front of the house was gracious and efficient. The waitstaff however, was quite obviously inexperienced in fine dining. Our waitress forgot a lot of things and the runners avoided eye contact when we were obviously wanting things. Our waitress forgot to give us menus, forgot to give us bread, forgot to tell us that they were out of a number of items until we ordered them, didn't appear to know the wine list and forgot our wine, etc. She also pitched her favorites quite hard. Finally, she shoved through the chairs of the two tables by us on more than one occasion to the surprise of both people sitting there. She was very nice, but from the way she conducted herself, this was her first foray into a high-end dining room. I suspect that Ris hires people without much experience in this area and therefore diners may experience less than high-end service on occasion.
The food itself was lackluster and, to my mind, included a lot of filler that is not mentioned on the menu, ostensibly either to keep the cost down or because they were running out of the choice ingredients. For example, the Endive, Walnut, Blue Cheese and Apple salad sounded great, but was mostly frisee and spinach. There was plenty of endive and apple too, but not much walnut or blue cheese. The whole point of the dish, to me, was to play off the blue cheese, but there was just a smattering of crumbles in the dish. Similarly, the octopus salad could have been a truly great dish - the octopus appeared to have been brined and served in a way I had not seen before and it was delicious. All four tiny pieces of it. The yogurt was a great accompaniment. There was no cured lemon or feta that I could find and hardly any cucumber. There was, again, however a large amount of frisee and spinach. Again, the main ingredients barely found their way on the plate. (There's a theme here, folks.) For mains, we ordered the Smoked Paprika Crusted Muscovy Duck with sweet and sour cherry sauce, candied orange, almond wild rice and caramelized endive, which came with perfectly cooked duck, one cherry, no orange, a lot of rice and endive. Although it was a very successful dish, again it appeared that the kitchen was skimping on critical ingredients. What was described on the menu as Grilled Portuguese Skirt Steak served with an over easy egg, rice and fries with a sauce of pickled hot peppers, beer and blackened onions was just steak, egg, rice and fries. There might have been 1-2 tiny pieces of onions and endive on my plate, but there wasn't much of hot pepper flavor or anything that resembled a hot pepper. What was on my plate was very bland and uninspired. The fries were not above ore-ida quality and the rice was soaked. Finally, we ordered Butterscotch Pudding cocoa crisps and chantilly cream, which was reasonably decent, albeit somewhat bland and strangely gritty.
The bar and wine list are very nice, and the bar has TVs behind it that show sports / news, which unfortunately is a rarity in DC. The wine list is a gem: It has classics and well-chosen, more obscure smaller producers, all of which are very reasonably priced. The bar itself is quite pretty, with good beers on tap (brooklyn amber, troegs, etc) and a nice selection of wines by the glass. The specialty cocktails we sampled were too sweet, but not by a lot. The bar was, however, unwilling to transfer our tab to our table. Further, there are tables immediately behind the bar, again ensuring that the bar area will always be too loud to be enjoyable.
In sum, Ris just isn't worth the money. There are two choices (Blue Duck and Westend) that are in the same price range, that fit same niche (business / upscale), have the same general type of cuisine and are within two blocks that are exponentially better in every facet (food, decor, ambience and service) than Ris. read more