My own personal expectation was high for this place, as having lived in Germany for six years, three of which were in Bavaria, and the last ten traveling back and forth for business. There is something so simple and pure in sitting in a Bavarian Bier Garten, sipping on a nice, crisp Helles born of the purity laws that used to be in effect, surrounded by friendly conversation, under a "Bavarian Sky" - - that sapphire blue dotted with white clouds, much like their flag.
"Gemütlichkeit" is the word used to characterize this feeling, and unfortunately on this side of the Atlantic our language is lacking in such a term.
I was at Prost their opening day, and have since been back a half a dozen times, which is an indication of where I am with this place. It is a spot-on representation of what can be experienced in and out of the towns surrounding Munich, save for the big screen TV which had to be a compromise to this sports city.
Inside, long tables, nice bar, plenty of servers, with flags and banners on the ceiling and just the right amount of German paraphernalia on the walls. There is even a "stammtisch" - a table reserved for regulars and perhaps (in the German tradition) the "important" people of the town, like the mayor and others held in higher regard.
Outside, more long tables, though a bit narrow and if you sit towards the back the smell of the large dumpster creeps in.
Of course, all of this ambiance is worthless if the beer does not hold up. This one does, with perhaps a minor exception.
The Dunkel is absolutely perfect, dark, roasty malt and just the right amount of bitterness to balance. The carbonation is right on, with a creamy head that continues to produce as the level in the glass goes down.
Oh, and the glassware... no compromises here. You will not find a standard bar "pint" shaker (usually only 14oz) at Prost. The glasses are specific to style, and adorned with a small colored logo, and the pilsner even has a gold rim. These glassware shapes have been refined for hundreds of years specifically to enhance the particular style, and thus the beer drinking experience.
Back to the beer... the Weissbeir is nice and fruity, banana and clove coming through; very true to the style. The pilsner is crisp, clean, a touch of spice at the end which I think is a tip of the hat to the originators of the style, Czechoslovakia.
The "guest beer" is a contract brew, Dank IPA, which was a delicious representation of a strong American IPA, but out of place here.
Finally, the Tivoli, a brand and recipe resurrected from 1969, a traditional German Helles. This is the only beer in the lineup that I felt fell short, though not by much. This style is the one invented in Munich in the 1800's, and is their daily drinking beer. The helles I remember drinking in Bavaria was straw-blond, full creamy head, a thick mouthfeel, almost floral aroma up front with a touch of sweet malt, finishing with herbal, not bitter hops.
The Tivoli reminded me more of a pilsner, with a thinner body and lacking in the sweet malt as I remember the style. The finish was more bitter than expected as well. I know that this is a Resurrection Beer from what was produced in Denver up until 1969, and I have never had the original, so I really cannot ding it too much as it might very well be true to the original.
I just hope the great brewers at Prost take another shot at this style, make it a bit sweeter, creamier, fuller, and less bitter at the end. That, to me, would be the perfect beer for a place that does an excellent job of creating an atmosphere of Gemütlichkeit.
Denver has many great small breweries that are doing interesting and extreme things, most awesome things. If, however, you want to step back from the imperial IPAs, the brews done with coffee and jasmine and key lime and cherries and untold other ingredients, if you want to kick back and enjoy clean, crisp, pure beer and relax in the company of others seeking a similar experience, then Prost is for you. read more