During a mid-April visit to Toronto, I'd spent much of morning walking around in the unseasonably frosty wind. As lunchtime approached, I found myself craving something warm and filling, and a big steaming bowl of pho sounded massively enticing. A quick Yelp search recommended the nearby Pho 90 and so I set off again into the blustering chill to seek some soupy satisfaction.
Upon arrival, I found myself surprisingly the only patron. I was promptly greeted and invited to seat myself anywhere. Shortly after, I was presented with a monstrous tome of a menu and a sheet upon which to write down my order. The variety of dishes Pho 90 serves is vast, including the pho dishes intimated by the name of the restaurant. They also have many other Vietnamese staples you might expect, like vermicelli noodles, rice dishes, spring rolls, and crepes.
I found the true piece de resistance tucked away toward the tail end of the menu: an entire page dedicated to their bo kho. They even go so far as to explain how it's typically a homemade dish reserved for family, and their pride in sharing this unusual dish with guests. The last time I'd had a bo kho was pre-COVID at a hole-in-the-wall eatery near our now-defunct Manhattan office, so I immediately decided I must have a bowl of this stew.
I was not prepared for the monstrous portion that got delivered to me not long after. I'm not exaggerating when I say that you could share one order as a full meal for two diners. Frankly, I should have made better life decisions and asked to pack up half of the order for takeaway. But, past me was definitely not that wise and, like I mentioned earlier, it was brutally cold outside. And the bo kho itself didn't disappoint.
It exceeded the rich, hearty, flavorful broth I remember from my haunt back home. Even the noodles were superb -- tender with a satisfying bite. I didn't encounter a single gristly or tough chunk of meat. In retrospect, I realized garnishes (e.g., lime, cilantro, bean sprouts) weren't served alongside my pho, but I didn't even notice their absence in the moment; the dish certainly didn't feel lacking in depth or complexity. Perhaps it was already flawlessly seasoned and the back-of-house felt confident that additional flavorings were unnecessary. (If so, they're not wrong.)
Fair warning, when I went to pay my bill, I discovered that the meal was essentially priced for two. $30 for a bowl of pho is, in my experience, unusually costly. When you consider that my one order would have handily made two meals, I think the price isn't unreasonable. I would also not have been upset to be served half the portion at half the price. I'd definitely return, but I'd probably want to bring a friend (who wants to split a bo kho). read more