I don't get this place, and I don't get this town (and I live here). First things first: Papermoon sucks. The food is bad. I don't feel great saying that because our friends, who live a couple blocks away, insisted we go and couldn't believe that, after six years of living here, we hadn't been to one of their favorite spots in town. Well, I'll tell you. That was two hours and $40 I'll never get back, and I'm sorry about it. I checked out the online menu in advance and, given the slightly high prices, was thinking the diner items might have something of a twist or an update. Not so much. Instead, it was just the same copious quantities of low-grade shit on a plate you can get pretty much any place in town, with cutesy names, in a tacky, obnoxious setting. I ate 1/3 of my chicken sandwich, which came with "tarragon mayo" (I guess), avocado, and bacon, not that you could tell from the taste, and my husband ate less still of his chicken parmigiana on farfalle. He's a big hungry boy, too, so I know it had to be bad. When we got in the car, he asked me what I thought. I said it sucked. He said the missing ingredient appeared to be flavor. When he added salt, fennel, black pepper, and some olive oil to his leftovers, they perked up.
Why, god, why? Why is so hard to get a decent freaking meal in Baltimore? Before the haters all descend to remind me about Charleston, and Cinghiale, and Pazo (more on that later and it has nothing to do with the food), and Birches (more on that later and in that case it also has to do with the food, which is horrid, and I cannot believe people think Birches qualifies as "fine dining" but I suppose that's Baltimore), and Woodberry Kitchen - fine. Let's take the dozen decent high end restaurants out of the equation. What's left? Indigma is nice. Helmand is decent, if overtouted. All those Salvadoran joints on Broadway are great for an inexpensive meal. On a hit or miss basis, some of the places in Fell's Point are good for a burger. Apart from the costly pies at Iggie's you can't get an edible pizza to save your life. And that's about it, from what I can tell.
Baltimore needs to get over itself. I've had it with the tacky quirky places (looking at you, Rocket to Venus and all you other Hampden Hon locales), all the pretentious joints that think they need to have written rules of conduct for their customers (Birches and Pazo, you're not that special - get a velvet rope and a bouncer if you think you're so great), and the behind-the-curve wannabes (Jack's Bistro, not everything has to be cooked sous-vide, and even if it does, Disco Stu doesn't advertise). It upsets me that I can get a better meal at the stand-up bar at Iron Bridge in Columbia than at 99% of the restaurants in Baltimore. read more