Nico's...dark, slightly slinky, early 1960's cool vibe with a full service bar that can sling out gin martinis, manhattans, rye whiskeys, single malts as well as blended scotches to go with their steak house provisions.
White table cloths, pleated 'pleather' banquettes, overhead drum chandeliers, stem wine glasses gleaming, sharply folded white napery, walk in chilled wine closet w/ racks of wines resting horizontally, backroom den w/ flat screen tv for casual viewing w/ cocktail in hand....Nico's is a casually fancy joint. There is an upstairs, but it was closed when we visited.
0) Baguette Campagne: Leathery thin, chewy crust & soft dense, sweet yeasty bread.
Choice of three flavoured olIve oils:
a) Mostly non superaged Aceto Balsamico, young, acidic, fruity.
b) Touched w/ a light puré of sun dried tomato, rather bland.
c) Bit of jalapeno & herbs
1) Steamed Mussels & Manila Clams, porky, mildy spiced Bilbao Chorizo/sausage, fresh tomato, garlic, shellfish sea scented, white wine, light saffron broth. Toasted, faintly sour dough french bread provided a sponge to soak up the broth.
2) Calamari Fritti: dusting of flour, then flash fried in high heat to mildly crisp the dusted coating. Taken out quickly to not overcook the squid so it dries out and loses the subtle taste. Meat still retained sweetness & moist softness.
Two sauces: pickled caper, creamy Aïoli (ah ee oh lee), and sweet, refreshingly acidic Salsa Marinara (mah ree nah rah).
3) Tomahawk Ribeye 16oz: Seemed aged since the spots of fat infused with the pleasantly chewy, meaty beef flavour of the steak melted in your mouth. Nice searing on the grill for a bit of a char as well as subtle coffee coating for more smokiness.
Sides: Lightly battered, thin crispy onion rings. Smidgen of veal jus, bit over whipped potatoes which made it heavy & starchy, al dente yellow wax string beans, green cauliflowerettes, green Rapini/broccoli rabe.
1-3a) Malbec, Mercer, Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State, 2014. Malbec is a wine varietal originally from Bordeaux. More famously grown in Argentina, but now in Columbia River AVA, S.E. Washington.
"Light aromas of herb, plum, vanilla, cocoa and dark fruit lead to a palate that is simultaneously sweet and tart, with a plush midpalate." Tannic graininess for a slightly rough finish which complemented the charred beef, but the agrodolce properties went well with the calamari and mussels & clams.
4) Chocolate Ganache Tarte: Ganache had vanilla but also a touch of cinnamon. The crust was ultra buttery, solid, firm short bread. The most unusual touch of molecular cuisine was the high quality heavy cream Crème Chantilly infused w/ a smokey aerosol that is reminiscent of the smoky flavour of lox.
This triggered in me a vision of cream cheese and lox while simultaneously eating a sweet chocolatey dessert. The clever pâtissier who thought this dessert up seems to be into "mind fucking" palates in a good way.
Our waiter was efficient & personable enough, but management should educate their waiters more about the food they serve so that they can better precisely & more confidently inform guests when they inquire about the ingredients, cooking methods, amount of aging, etc.
Also, teach waiters to pack left overs with more finesse. My steak slices & veggies were placed on the bottom of the box, then the mashed potatoes were unceremoniously dumped on top.
However, those were mere quibbles to the overall quality of the food and general atmosphere of this chic steakhouse. read more