The name "Milkfloat" makes me think of Christina Tosi's Momofuku Milk Bar, not just because the names are similar but because there's an element of experimentation and whimsy at this Delano restaurant that mimics that extremely popular NYC restaurant I've never visited. Plus there's the large open interior that features a lot of wood and natural light in a way that indicates a hip and modern restaurant in a way that has only begun to catch on in the ICT. But mostly it's because they also offer cereal milk, the creation of which is largely attributed to Tosi.
The newspaper first called Milkfloat a "dessert restaurant," which was a disservice because it made you expect the place to be something that it's not. It's a bakery that serves coffee. Or maybe it's secretly a coffeeshop that serves pastry, but I'll get to that in a minute.
Chances are that Milkfloat will have something you will like. Chances are that you will hesitate for a second when considering the price of some of those things, but you're already in line and, hey, TREAT YO SELF. It all looks pretty, served up on a wooden block and ready for your favorite Instagram filter. The popular items seem to be the homemade Twinkies and Pop-Tarts, both of which are in and of themselves modified versions of actual baked goods to begin with, so there's not too much of a leap of faith here for the homemade versions. The Not-a-Twinkie sponge cake tastes good and the homemade frosting tastes better than the real thing, but it's gone pretty quickly. The homemade Pop-Tarts are much more tender than the boxed variety, so you won't mind if you get a bite that doesn't have filling. The cake pops are cute, though there was too much frosting for the amount of cake.
They rotate through desserts, particularly pie, very frequently, so there's a lot of opportunity for variety. I can't think of the last time I saw a banoffe pie in a display case, but Milkfloat's rendition was everything I was looking for: rich and sweet with a great depth of flavor from the dulce de leche, with plenty of distinctive banana flavor and a hearty whipped cream.
Their drink menu should be considered on equal footing as their desserts, because it's just as creative. This is perhaps the first egg cream I've found in Wichita, and it's one of many interesting non-coffee drinks that pop up from time to time. Their coffee game is on point, too, with beans from Tulsa's Topeca Coffee. Having a Japanese cold brew and enjoying the full flavor spectrum that it provides I realized that Milkfloat may not always be 100% successful at everything they put out, but they offer so many good things and do them so well that there's bonus points to be found here for creativity. Wichita needs more businesses that are willing to challenge their customers and push the envelope, but just the fact that Milkfloat can thrive in 2017 is proof enough that we're headed in the right direction. read more