How can you not love a pizza joint that's been around for 75 years? Well, if the pizza weren't any good, maybe you'd have an excuse not to love it. Fortunately, Matthew's gives you no such excuse.
This is neither "New York style" thin crust nor "Chicago style" deep dish but its own style somewhere in between. Call it "Baltimore style," if you like; as the oldest continuously operating pizzeria in the city, they've earned the right to call it that. Not that they do. In fact, they're distinctly low-key when it comes to self-promotion. Some restaurants would try to capitalize on such a distinguished history, but Matthew's seems content simply to remain a neighborhood favorite. Some of the patrons are clearly regulars, but the wait staff treat everyone well.
About that crust. It's crispy on the edges, buttery, and frankly delicious--the best part of the pie. The only point of comparison that comes to mind is (forgive me) Pizza Hut pan pizza, which is vaguely similar in concept but a hundred times less successful in execution.
The cheeses are excellent, too--no pre-shredded chain store cheese here--and there are multiple options, including a high-quality mozzarella, a Reggianito (similar to Parmesan Reggiano), and a fresh ricotta. Try the 3-Cheese Pie and get all of the above bundled onto one pizza: a gooey mass of scrumptiousness! The toppings all seem fine, if mostly undistinguished; only the meatball really stands out as something special. (They do make a well-regarded crab pie, which I haven't tried.)
The sauce is fairly bland. This could be a good thing, in that it doesn't get in the way of the other flavors, but I found myself wishing it contained just a bit more salt. Of course, there's salt on the tables, along with the ubiquitous grated Parmesan and crushed pepper flakes, plus an extra shaker filled with oregano--a thoughtful touch for the herb lovers among us. Ahem.
Most of the pizzas come in two sizes. The 10-inch pie is plenty for one person and might suffice for two people who either are indifferent to good pizza (philistines!) or inexplicably had just finished a meal before arriving. Its big brother, the 12 incher, is a more reasonable meal for two. You won't find any gigantic 18-inch pizzas here, but that's okay: quality over quantity is a policy worth pursuing, especially when it comes to food.
The salads and appetizers are good, but pizza is the star of the show, and deservedly so. Save room for it!
My only real gripe about the pizza is its presentation. While diners are provided china plates, the pizzas arrive on paper ones, and the bottom of the crust sometimes sticks to the paper, especially if there are moist toppings that run a bit when the pie is sliced. (Ricotta and mushrooms, I'm talking to you!) The worthy individual on dishwashing duty may hate me for this, but I suggest the pizza be served on china or metal plates. Not only do the paper plates stick; they also seem just the slightest bit tacky. If Matthew's ever moves across the street into Patterson Park and serves their food alfresco, I'll withdraw my suggestion. In the meantime, a buffer of waxed paper or foil would be another solution.
All in all, Matthew's is one of the true treasures of Baltimore. I hope they have another successful 75 years. Heck, if the autocratic troll in the White House doesn't decree McDonald's for all--or just blow us all up--maybe Matthew's will keep going for another 750 years. I rather hope they do. read more