I honestly ran came across Magic Noodle by accident while I was driving through Midway on a way to the store. It's a recently opened (self-described) la-mien (hand-pulled noodle) restaurant with hand-pulled options on the menu. Considering the somewhat limited options of good Chinese food in the Twin Cities, I had to try this place out. The interior has very nice old/ancient Chinese motifs, including portions of old, Chinese-style roofing, walls/dividers, and other decorations that are nicely thought out and tasteful (unlike a certain Andrew Zimmern restaurant). Plus, the default setting at the tables are a plate, chopsticks, and a soup spoon (Asian), making me think, OK... this is probably going to be a pretty legit Chinese restaurant.
Well, yes and no. For the most part, there are legitimate dishes on the menu, but a lot of the menu is catered to a native Minnesotan crowd, and not the Asian crowds. This is a big disappointment. Red flags on the menu: Moo Shu fried noodles, edamame, chicken and mushroom noodle soup, mochi ice cream, green tea cheesecake, fried rice. A lot of the names for the dishes are also red flags: beef burritos (just call it beef [wrapped] in scallion pancakes, FFS), bone cylinder (just call it beef bone marrow, if that's what it's supposed to be), triple delight pie (I can't even).
Well, I committed myself... Gotta order off the menu... So, we ordered cold black fungus, Sichuan wonton in chili oil, the "beef burrito" [...ugh...], scallion pancake, Taiwanese tomato beef brisket noodle soup, and the Shanxi Shaved noodle soup.
1. The black fungus wasn't bad. Nice, tender, a bit of crunch. A hint of vinegar, but you really had to focus on the flavor to find any sort of flavor.
2. The Sichuan wonton in chili oil was OK, but the wontons were very small. You could barely taste the oil, vinegar, and soy sauce unless you drank the oil mixture straight up. None of it stuck to the wontons. It was really missing the Sichuan peppercorns and red chili as well which would have made the dish deserve the Sichuan label. It's honestly just wonton in chili oil.
3. The beef burrito was made fairly well, but lacked much with regards to beef to pancake ratio, and didn't have much scallion. A little strong on the cilantro.
4. The scallion pancakes are fairly standard, but the dipping sauce was overly sweet and just didn't belong (and should never be served with the scallion pancake).
5. The Taiwanese tomato beef brisket noodle soup was lacking a bit in the flavor department. The tomato and beef broth was there, but needed a lot of extra chili oil to really bring out any sort of flavor. The brisket is pretty spot on, but the chunks were too big, and turned out to be a fairly unpleasant balance of either having some noodle with soup, or a large chunk of brisket. The noodles were off. Not much chew, pretty hard, and also uneven thickness. These are indicators of both an inexperienced hand noodle puller, and a noodle recipe that is off with regards to what is most likely the type of flour used and the amount of water used with the flour. Despite its shortcomings, it was probably the best dish ordered.
6. The Shanxi shaved noodle soup didn't fare better. The broth was pretty flat in flavor and the noodles still had a strong dough taste and texture to them. Very likely too much water in the dough, and the noodle was undercooked.
I also received feedback that there was, overall, way too much cilantro, overpowering a lot of the dishes.
All in all, I really wanted to like Magic Noodle, since it's a new offering in the Twin Cities aside from the typical Canton and HK dishes, but having recently having come back from a trip to Montreal and eaten at Nouilles de Lan Zhou (a phenomenal la-mein place), I came in with a very high bar. Granted, I should have also ordered the Lanzhou noodle soup for direct comparison, but in all honesty, the noodles just aren't up to par, and the restaurant, in all its efforts, really isn't a restaurant for Asians, but more for a different crowd. I appreciate the additional dishes you won't find at other typical Chinese restaurants (cold cucumber, black fungus, beef in scallion pancake, all the noodle soups (with the hand-pulled noodles)), but this is honestly a restaurant for those who are looking to try a different type Chinese cuisine instead of the typical Chinese restaurant offerings.
All I can say in feedback is that the restaurant should really embrace its Chinese heritage and flavors behind its dishes and not hold back on the flavors that are supposed to be in the dishes (and drop the Minnesota Nice naming and dish selection). Chinese dishes are supposed to offend the typical Western palate because of contrasting flavors and different textures. Yes, it may lose a good portion of people who may try to venture into different Chinese food, but if they get the dishes close to what it should be, there will be loyal customers ready to line up to eat there, and I'll be one of them. read more