This week, BACONS (Boston-area Chowhounds Nibbling on Saturday) visited MaLa Restaurant in Allston...
I'm not sure why, but the Boston area just abounds in Sichuan restaurants. Perhaps it has something to do with the legendary Sichuan Gourmet having trained and inspired a legion of imitators, but it does make it easy to feed the (spicy) beast.
Boston's latest entrant, MaLa in Allston opened sometime in June, on the same stretch of Brighton Ave that hosts Bon Chon and Jo Jo Taipei. The space was previously occupied by Afghani restaurant Ariana, which has recently relocated, and the remodeled interior is attractively modern-Asian, with white and blue fluorescent lighting and stenciled Panda art providing a bit of a hip vibe. Not to mention the dance music sound track, which I could easily have lived without (although, thankfully, MaLa lacks a laser light show, a la MDM Noodle). As one might expect, the half-full Saturday lunch crowd looked to be largely local Asian students.
The relatively short menu (for a Chinese restaurant) features the usual Sichuan classics (Dan Dan noodles, twice-cooked pork, fuqi feipian...) as well as noodles, including "hand-pulled" noodles (although the latter were to be found in only two dishes). But the main focus is clearly on two things: BBQ skewers; and MaLa Pots (2 types). So for a Saturday lunch, we largely stuck with those:
MALA CRAWFISH ($13.95)
~I was particularly excited to try this, and happy that it turned out to be a delicious, if messy, start to the meal. The ~20 crawfish (or more properly around here, crayfish) were on the smallish side and drowned in a spicy brown broth. We chose to go for "extra spicy", rather than "spicy" or "mild" (the 3 choices for all the pots), but I would have to say that although flavorful (and worth taking home to pour over something else), extra spicy wasn't really all that spicy. Amusingly (at least to me), we were provided with plastic gloves for the twist, peel, pinch and sucking process, but of course it was easier to do this without gloves (wipes were kindly provided). I enjoyed this dish (although the broth was a bit salty, I only noticed that when I tasted a couple of spoonfuls), but next time I'm getting a bowl all to myself.
BARBEQUE MEAT ($1.50/skewer): Lamb, pork belly, and sausage.
~The lamb was the clear winner, tender, with a slightly cumin flavor. But on the whole, I wasn't particularly excited by these and would probably pass on all but the lamb next time. They also offer a wide variety of other meats (such as lamb kidney, frog, chicken gizzards, quail eggs, and assorted vegetables).
MALA SPICY POT (custom ingredients, $22, YMMV): With lamb, sausage, beef tripe, pig blood, enoki, taro, lotus, potato, gluten, bok choy, served "spicy".
~Two types of hot pots are offered, "Mala Pot" which comes with broth; and "Mala Spicy Pot" without broth. We went with the latter, and chose the option of specifying our own ingredients (how to total up the price of the ingredients was a bit complex, but our waiter was able to explain it to us). Whereupon, we were presented with a giant bowl of "Mmmm...Chinese Comfort Food" (Homer Simpson's voice). Nothing complex, but this was still really well done, with all the ingredients cooked perfectly (although they forgot to include the potato). Interestingly, this time "spicy" turned out to be more spicy than our "extra spicy" crawfish, but still nothing to write home about. $22 and shared among 4, we still took home leftovers, so I thought this was a good deal.
A big bowl of rice was $5 (grrrrr, not such a good deal!).
A short list of generic beers are available.
Service was not a particularly strong point at MaLa, since once we place our order and received our food, we were never visited again until we flagged a waiter down. Parking is of course abysmal around Brighton Ave, so go early and be prepared to drive around in circles for a few minutes.
Not really a destination Sichuan restaurant like Sichuan Gourmet in Billerica (admittedly we didn't try any of the classics), but I really enjoyed this meal and will definitely return. read more