I'd had Chameleon Cafe bookmarked to try for ages. Then, it was gone. In its place stood Maggie's Farm, ostensibly carrying on its predecessor's mission with a touch more attitude. So, when a LivingSocial deal popped up, we figured we'd jump on it.
The restaurant itself is corner-rowhouse bistro chic in the way that only Baltimore can put together. You can tell that, at some point, someone lived here. Remnants of the residential past still linger at the edges. The bar seems transplanted from your grand-dad's basement, for instance, where he built it out of plywood and formica one weekend before a cookout.
Having been seated, our server was on the scene quickly, ready and able to explain the drinks selection as well as any questions about the menu. The dinner menu itself is intentionally small, and seasonal. There's a burger, a steak, some fish, a pork chop, and an ever-changing vegetarian option for mains. Small menu equals less stuff sitting in the fridge waiting for orders, so I'm cool with the pared down choices, especially as they cover the spectrum pretty well.
Before-dinner cocktails came after a small wait - everything takes a little time here, since the dining room and (in warm weather) outside patio are pretty solidly packed even on a weeknight. The staff, however, do an admirable job keeping the pace of the meal within reason. The missus ordered the Pretty in Pink, a vodka, Grenadine and grapefruit-juice combo that was surprisingly not over-sweet. My Manhattan was described as containing not only maraschino liquor, but herbsaint as well. Strangely, it didn't so much change the character of the drink as it smoothed out the rye whiskey's traditional rough edges. Good barwork, guys.
We split the fried oyster steamed buns appetizer - two pillows of dough slightly firmer than a Chinese steamed bun, each cradling a couple of juicy, crispy fried oysters topped with a bit of slightly spicy mayo, quick-pickled cucumber slices, and napa cabbage kimchi. This little plate and a couple of drinks are worth the visit, alone.
We both ordered fish entrees - arctic char and rockfish. Both were cooked firm, with a crispy skin, but not over-done or dry. The char came with vegetables (including artichoke and zucchini) sauteed with mussel meats and bacon lardons (or diced chorizo - hard to tell), with a savory sauce on the side. Rockfish was served with spring peas, greens, and an oyster stew as a sauce. Both were competent seafood dishes, but had been overshadowed by the explosive flavors of the appetizer - they didn't quite live up to the intensity. Which was a shame. Still, not to take away from the dishes - they were well executed with fresh ingredients.
Saving a little room for dessert, we ordered up a flour-less chocolate cake with salted caramel ice cream and profiteroles filled with strawberry semifreddo and sliced berries. The cake & caramel ice cream were a great combination, and would be fantastic with espresso. The semifreddo in the profiteroles was a bit hard and grainy instead of the semi-frozen light mousse it's intended to be. Still, it was a light and refreshing finish to the meal.
Overall, Maggie's impressed. The kitchen was competent, the staff kept things running smoothly, and the dining room had a bustling but not noisy/frantic atmosphere. As the vanguard of the fresh foods movement in this part of town, they've taken the helm from Chameleon smoothly and kept things well on course. read more