When we look back on the Gentrification Battle for Humboldt Park, charging $3 for french fries will be remembered as a war crime.
I don't understand the reasoning behind the concept of the "permanent food truck." The whole point of a food truck is to sacrifice some quality and price value in exchange for the mobility and convenience that operating on four wheels can provide. People outside a bar at 2 a.m. won't have any problem paying nearly $15 for a run-of-the-mill burger and fries meal because they're drunk, everywhere else is closed, and it's right there in front of them when they want it.
A brick-and-mortar location invalidates those benefits: if it's 7 p.m. on a Wednesday, I've got a million other choices in the neighborhood, and most of those choices won't insult me with a pulled pork sandwich you could recreate at home by dumping an unseasoned pork shoulder into a crock pot along with a bottle of supermarket barbecue sauce.
Similarly, the chicken sandwich. (Not all the issues I have with Lucy's are ideological.) Compared to what you'll get for the same price a few blocks over at Leghorn, it's miserably inferior in almost every way. I'm the sort of person who rolls their eyes when they hear food described as "uninspired," but there's really no better way to describe what's going on inside Lucy's, right down to the stale retro-diner aesthetic. True, a hot chicken sandwich doesn't need to be complicated: plenty of people will tell you it only needs the chicken, the pickles, and the bun. But whatever Lucy's is serving needs something beyond what they have now.
There were other typical Yelp complaints to be found that relate to service: the three times I went to Lucy's, the person behind the counter treated me with this very odd cocktail of surprise and confusion that I was standing in front of them, met soon after with resentment for being there at all. But that's just food service, especially at a freshly-opened location; anyone who expects to be greeted with smiles every time they go out to eat is asking way too much from underpaid strangers. But even a kiss on the lips every time I walked through the door wouldn't be enough to compensate for everything else going on at Lucy's.
Serving unimpressive food at an unreasonable price isn't the real reason I dislike this restaurant so much: I hate what it represents. I hate that it's serving characterless food aimed at all the people moving into the new, equally characterless condos now lining California Avenue, instead of the locals getting priced out. I hate that it tries to dupe me into thinking $3 is a reasonable price for fries by putting the word "golden" in front of them, as if there's some sort of mystical value placed on the potatoes Lucy's dunks in hot oil, as opposed to the ones they give you for free at, say, Maxwell Street, or any of the other dozens of reasonable burger joints in Chicago.
I'm sure whoever is behind this restaurant has good intentions, and I wish them the best. But I mean this as unsarcastically as possible: the day Lucy's closes its doors and stays on the street where it belongs will be a step forward for our society. read more