Absolutely wonderful. I had the 6 course prix fix lunch and opted for the wine pairing, the cheese course, and tea as well. 3.5 hours of bliss and impeccable service. From the footstool for my purse, to their insistence on coming back (at exactly the right time) and taking the tea bags out of the tea pot instead of letting me do it, to the sommelier's ability to be educational but not condescending about the wine, everything was perfect. The staff offered me my choice of magazines or a newspaper since I was on my own, but the food was so interesting, delicious, and well timed that I only pulled out my ipad (takes up less table space) twice the whole meal. They also let me swap one of the entrees for something else on the menu I thought looked much more interesting.
It's alot of food, but because it's small portions, it was manageable. I really enjoyed the wine pairings (it's cool to see how the food and the wines interact) but it was too much wine for me- about 2/3 of a glass times 6, but that included port, madeira (perfect with the deconstructed onion soup) and a dessert wine. Much to my dismay, I had to stop finishing them. If I came back with someone, I'd be tempted to ask if we could share one set of the wine pairings. Which is probably super gauche, but I hate the idea of wasting wine, especially good wine.
Highlights: the amuse bouches, which were little bubbles of liquid perched in a branch of dried grape stem, a chicken liver tart with chopped up fruits/veggies/pickles (I'm not sure what exactly) on top of it, the sea urchin and avocado, the buckwheat roll shaped like a little cinnamon roll but full of seeds was the best of three excellent bread options, the sweetbreads, the dessert cart with all sorts of little chocolates, caramels, and marshmallow, and the wine pairings.
Things that weren't bad but weren't great: the cod with truffle foam. It was probably the most expertly cooked piece of cod I'll ever having in my life, but it was still...white fish. And the truffle foam, despite containing actual pieces of truffle, was also boring. I don't really get truffle though, so some people may love it. The dessert that involved bananas. It was beautiful, but not interesting. The cheese course. It was part of the experience, a very generous amount of cheese, and came out on a gilded cart probably twice the size of my table that they roll over so you can make your choices, but the cheese didn't wow me. It was more of a pleasant interlude. For $30, I would not get it again. The tea service at the end was just tea, but it was beautifully presented, came with two (more) tiny pastries, and was worth the $15 just to have twenty minutes to digest and reflect on lunch. But you won't be missing anything if you don't get it.
Notes about the restaurant: they seem to expect blazers for men, as I saw them hand them to at least two people. But they have them. They even seemed to have a wide enough array to give the guys who needed them ones that fit! There were at least two of us ladies dining alone, and it didn't even seem weird at all. So don't try to convince a friend they want to spend absurd amounts of money, just go do it on your own. The food is entertainment enough. The staff is friendly, but not chatty. I'd say about 2/3 of the dining room for lunch was tourists. So don't worry too much about looking out of place, or taking photos, or not speaking French. Similarly, when presented with options (bread service, candies at the end of the meal, etc) just take one of everything. They know it's a once in a lifetime experience for most of us. The dining room is pretty, but kind of generic in my opinion- the courtyard and the the area I think they use to serve breakfast and then tea in looked prettier. The famous flower arrangements are indeed stunning, but the week I was there (mid-March) that just meant massive, massive arrays of forsythia. It was a little modern for my tastes.
All in all, my first foray into 3-star dining was everything I'd hoped for. I doubt I'd go back when there are so many other wonderful options in Paris, but I'm very glad I went to Le Cinq. read more