The best "bang for the buck" we found in Paris. Full review in blog.
The first item to arrive at our table was the complimentary loaf pan containing the night's "terrine du porc, veau, et canard" with a jar of cornichons and freshly sliced baguette. Instructed to "enjoy as much as you like" I'm rather certain that our server did not expect two diners of our size "enjoy" the whole thing, but with slice after slice full of meaty flavor and heavy aromatics including onion, pepper, garlic, coriander, paprika, and more it was hard to stop. While the entirety of the composition was not quite as complex or smooth as that at L'Ami Jean, the more charred top layer was absolutely fantastic and when paired with the warm baguette and semi-sweet cornichons it was a great start.
Our 33Eu three-course journey would begin perhaps twenty-five minues after seating with "Gambas sautees ail et persil, jambon d'Espagne, risotto cremeux a l'encre de seiche" for my sister. Served in a large both of impressive depth and vastly larger than one would expect for an entrée the base of this dish was an intense creamy risotto tinged with squid ink yet still maintaining its nutty essence topped with an admixture of chopped prawns sautéed in garlic and parsley and crisp cracklins' of Spainish ham. Certainly more "Pan-European" than strictly French the quality of the risotto itself was one of the best I've ever tasted and while the garlic prawns may have been just a bit "too garlic" for my tastes they certainly did not obscure the flavor profile of the other ingredients.
For my entrée the day's selection would be one of my favorite foods in one of my favorite styles of presentation-"Oeuf de poule bio facon cocotte, epinard, pointes d'asperges et tomates confites." Delivered in a jar and popped open tableside with the warning that it was very hot, this bubbly soup of poached organic egg in "casserole" was the very picture of early spring. With the smooth and creamy egg plus sautéed spinach forming the backdrop of flavors and crisp snappy asparagus speckling the each spoonful, the most interesting component of this dish was actually the duck fat confit tomatoes - intensely sweet and slightly leathery in texture providing juxtaposition to the otherwise vegetal and subdued flavor profile.
With entrees cleared the plats would arrive quickly on their heels as the steady stream of plates from such a small kitchen was a sight to behold. For my sister's selection, "Filet de dorade dries sauvage a la plancha, legumes fins et croquants a l'huile d'olive, emulsion a la coriander et au gingembre" featured an imposing fillet of slightly over-cooked grilled sea bream that none the less flaked apart nicely and had a great flavor. Topped with bitter greens and resting on a bed of pine nuts and snappy vegetables including tomatoes, peppers, asparagus, and zucchini poached in olive oil the dish was finished with an aromatic sauce of coriander and ginger that although tasty was also slightly overwhelming of the fish.
Although "Margret de canard epais roti sur la peau, petites pommes de terres roties au jus de viande" was perhaps the most straight forward item on the menu it was also very well done. Yet another sizeable portion with the honey lacquered skin fatty and supple and the flesh pink and moist the flavor of the duck was quite good while the roasted fingerling potatoes intermingled with fibrous mushrooms in beefy gravy were a nice savory contrast.
For dessert, just when you thought my soufflé fix would have been satisfied, Le Regalade offered a version of their own entitled "Souffle chaud au Grand Marnier." For the third time following the assumption that if a little is good a lot is better, this towering soufflé arrived tall and teetering, a mountain of white topped with a snowfall of confectioners' sugar. Simple, sweet, steaming hot, and punchy with notes of cognac and orange it was a classic done well and compared to previous experiences with Gran Marnier soufflés it was understated-a good thing for someone who doesn't fancy too boozy a preparation.
Furthering her newfound love of Rice Pudding that began at L'Ami Jean, Erika's dessert selection arrived in a latched jar and although I cannot be certain my gestalt is that pound for pound the portion may have actually trumped even that served to us by Jego. Titled "Riz cuit au lait et a la vanilla comme le faisait ma grand-mere, caramel laitier," and served with a liquid salty caramel so buttery that it put those at Jacques Genin to shame, the pudding itself was thick, toothsome, rich, and heavily accented with vanilla. Again with the wooden spoon working slowly it was once again to our waitress' surprise when she arrived later to find the jar empty and both of us smiling in a near comatose state. To be completely honest I can't say whether the pudding at Jean or Regalade was better - but I'd gladly do a blind taste test again if only to have another chance to taste both once more. read more