Happy China is an institution in Saint Louis. Before you read my review, you have to understand where I come from. I grew up in St. Louis, and Happy China was our go-to buffet from ~1990 until I left for university in 2001. I ate there at least twice a month on average since I was 8 years old. I brought my first dinner date to Happy China. both me and my sister celebrated our Bar/Bat Mitzvahs there with out of town family and friends. Chef Pa once came to my table and taught me how to make potsticker sauce. There was rarely a Christmas our family couldn't be found enjoying the delicious food. And they knew me - I was "diet coke, no ice", my drink order. It was adorable.
After leaving for university I found fewer and fewer reasons to go "home" to Saint Louis, but the highest ranking of them was to revisit the Chinese buffet that started a lifetime love of Chinese food for me. They have a super solid rendition of Crab Rangoon, General Tso's Chicken, Orange chicken, Broccoli Beef, Fried rice, Chow Mein, and pretty much every other Americanized Chinese dish you might expect, but there are two dishes that deserve special attention.
The first dish that makes me crave Happy China from across the country is the potstickers. Their potstickers are truly unique. The texture and flavor of filling is unlike any other potstickers, sorta like a very moist meatball in a thicker-than-average wrapper. They have a perfect char on the bottom, I think they maybe use minced scallions in the bottom of the plan to accentuate the crust or something like that. It is magic.
The far and away winning dish, however, is the special house beef. I have eaten Chinese food in Seattle, San Francisco, and all over the US, authentic places in China towns and little known hole-in-the wall joints as well, but I have never encountered anything like this dish. The texture of the beef is *incredible* - I presume they do some extreme velveting process - and the sauce is sweet and peppery but not too spicy, and has notes of ginger, garlic, and scallions. I apply special house beef to my plate like paint - first a base coat, then my potstickers and general's chicken, then a second coat of special house beef to let that tasty sauce infuse everything with the flavor and aroma of Asian cooking at its best.
When a once-every-20-years-or-so eclipse comes along and gives me an excuse to be in STL, I'm not going to pass it up, so I was able to go to Happy China last week, for the first time in ~8 years or so. I learned that Chef Pa and his wife took a much deserved retirement and the restaurant was under new management, but with the same recipes. I was a little worried from some of the recent Yelp reviews I saw, but also optimistic and hopeful.
I can report that one thing has definitely changed at Happy China. I am no longer "Diet Coke, no ice", I am now "Diet Pepsi, no ice". Other than that, I can confidently say that any divergence from the old recipes were temporary adjustments. Things are nearly identical to what I remember. The potstickers were just what I expected, the Crab Rangoon was still perfectly gooey in the center and crispy on the sides, and most importantly, that special house beef was just what I needed. The service was friendly and attentive, they kept my drink full, and when I cleaned out the special house beef they already had another tray on the way to replace it so I could get seconds.
I also felt like the price of the buffet was a very good value - I live on the west coast now so maybe my sense for cost of living is out of whack, but the buffet price seemed reasonable and the cost of a take out container seemed even more reasonable (had to take some back for my wife!)
As an aspiring chef who can make a pretty mean Broccoli Beef, I would probably pay $1000 for the recipe for that special house beef, and I would sign an NDA if needed. (Attention Owners of Happy China - this is NOT a joke. Please email me - cmyers at cmyers dot org).
If I'm honest with myself, there was one other difference I noticed at Happy China - I was there on a Sunday night for dinner and there were only a few other tables filled. I know restaurants in general do a lot more to-go business these days and I can't imagine how that must have impacted buffets (buffets are rarer on the west coast, it is more of a Midwest-Americanized-Chinese thing).
If you live in Saint Louis and you aren't making a regular pilgrimage to Happy China, you are missing out. Please sustain this institution for the next generation and the next one after that. read more